MS3 power up for testing

[Madkaw]

I am looking to power up my box to test and calibrate the pots for my Hall sensor. So I have read that 3.6.1 of the 3.57/ms3x manual that shows powering up can be done with pin 28 . So can I measure and adjust my pots for my sensor (the 2.5 volt calibration, open collector hall, pot 56 adj) with just this basic power up?

[billr]

Yes. (pin 28 and a ground, of course)

[Madkaw]

Thanks

[Madkaw]

Another dumb question . I guess I will need to order a 12v power supply and I noticed DIY tune has one. My real question is what's the best way to power just one pin? Does the end on that power supply slide over a pin or is it just set up for the stimulator?
I have some alligator clips, but they seem too big and clumsy and I'm paranoid I will short against another pin.
Thanks for any suggestions

[DeadStiff]

DIY's power supply is for the stimulator. The only other way I would power the MS is through the wiring harness, and don't forget a fuse.

[billr]

To power single pins, crimp a DB-type socket/pin on a wire and cover the terminal with some tape or shrink-tube; or buy a DB37 housing that takes snap-in contacts and just populate with the ones you want. Those contacts can be removed fairly successfully, so the housing could be used later for other purposes. There is a lot of dislike for those DB-type connectors, but they have a huge advantage in being most economical and widely available; you can benefit from that for any "temporary" wiring like this.

Edit: If you have a power-supply out of an old PC, that will have a dandy 12V output.

[DaveEFI]

Another dumb question . I guess I will need to order a 12v power supply and I noticed DIY tune has one. My real question is what's the best way to power just one pin? Does the end on that power supply slide over a pin or is it just set up for the stimulator?
I have some alligator clips, but they seem too big and clumsy and I'm paranoid I will short against another pin.
Thanks for any suggestions

It really is worthwhile getting a JimStim and decent external power supply. Allows you to test the unit pretty comprehesively off the car. So if you have any problems on the car, you can be sure if it is the MS or your harness, etc. You can sell the JimStim on Ebay afterwards - but most will want to keep it. Also makes it easier to do say a code update off the car.

[Madkaw]

Thanks for the replies guys.
I probably should get a Jim Stim, but was hoping to get a quick check on my pull up circuit adjustment.

I found a DB connector that came with my MS3X kit, but couldn't figure out how to pull one of those little pin connectors out.

Someone else also suggested the pc power supply

[billr]

The connectors that come with the kit are solder-type. You need to get one that is a separate housing and uses snap-in pins that crimp to wires. Many sources for those and the crimp and extraction tools, you should be able to find at any medium-size city, probably even small towns...

[Ollie8974]

The connectors that come with the kit are solder-type. You need to get one that is a separate housing and uses snap-in pins that crimp to wires. Many sources for those and the crimp and extraction tools, you should be able to find at any medium-size city, probably even small towns...

I found the pins, both crimp and solder, connectors and tools listed on Amazon.Another method is to use weather pack pins and connectors for bench testing.
You will need the Jim Stim to provide a RPM signal.

[18tpolo]

Hello I am just finished assembling my ms3. I did the test found in the assembly manual and got the power where it said I should, but I am unable to load the firmware. I am not able to detect the the ecu, even after assigning the cable to com port one.

Also when I power the ecu should the leds at the one the ecu light up ?

I just need some help please.

[billr]

I don't think any of the three LEDs should light just at power-up. None of mine do, but mine has no special mods and the firmware has been loaded (and updated) for a long time. What type of com are you using, straight RS232 (DB9 or DB25 connectors) or some combination using USB? I found, at one time, that USB was more tricky to set up. RS232 is a "no brainer" and I would go to that if I had problems with initial connection attempts.

[18tpolo]

I am using the serial to usb cable, I will try the serial to serial and let you know what happens.

[Ollie8974]

Another dumb question .
I have some alligator clips, but they seem too big and clumsy and I'm paranoid I will short against another pin.
Thanks for any suggestions

Radio Shack has a good selection of different size alligator clips.
Also get the Jim stim, as DaveEFI suggested, you will need the tach signal to test the out puts.

[SupraGuy91]

You don't have to have a stim. I used a mean well 12v DC power supply off ebay 25 bucks. I also got some online fuse box to use to fuse the power supply I think it cost 10 dollars for boats. I grabbed all the sensors off my engine and cam sensor to do bench testing. IMO that's the best way to know your stuff works. Then put it back on the car and everything should work since its all been bench tested ! Let me know if you need links or picutres I have pics of my bench set up.

[DaveEFI]

Since I only really deal with the one engine type, I have a complete spare inlet manifold etc in the workshop with all sensors and injectors etc so I can test a loom after building it. But still find a Stim useful, as it allows the MS to be tested very quickly.

[billr]

^^^ +1

I have a variety of ways to test things, and went for years without a Stim. However, I recently bought a JimStim to use trying to help somebody else, and am happy to have it available now.