Microsquirt V3 Ignition set up HELP

[Izzo675]

Hey guys,
I'm having trouble with my Ignition settings. I have a Microsquirt set up on my Supercharged 2009 Triumph Daytona 675. It is a 3 cylinder with 1-2-3 firing order and has
2 wire, high energy COP coils. I'm using an AEM 30-2843 3 channel ignition driver. I'm using WLED to fire cylinder #3, Do I need to tie TPS VERF into WLED with a resistor?
Also, My Fly wheel/Toothed wheel is a 24-2 configuration and rotates counter clock wise. #1 tooth is 52.5* ATDC , I found this using a degree wheel. there is no way to shoot it with a timing light because the Fly wheel is in a oil bath. I'm not exactly sure what settings to use.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Alex

[grom_e30]

yeah for your 3rd coil output you will need the pull up resistor between vref and the wled output. there was a guy on here who had a bandit 400 with the pick up mounted on the flywheel in the casing and his solution for checking the timing was to cut apart a spare engine casing to give him a window to shoot the strobe through.

i dont suppose you have a tdc mark on the opposite end of the crank you can use to verify the timing without cutting stuff up.

[Izzo675]

[quote="grom_e30"]yeah for your 3rd coil output you will need the pull up resistor between vref and the wled output. there was a guy on here who had a bandit 400 with the pick up mounted on the flywheel in the casing and his solution for checking the timing was to cut apart a spare engine casing to give him a window to shoot the strobe through.

i dont suppose you have a tdc mark on the opposite end of the crank you can use to verify the timing without cutting stuff up.[/quote

Ok thanks, that wasn't made clear to me when I contacted Megasquirt... I'm going to try to avoid cutting the cover, the alternator is built in to the cover and is pretty expensive lol.

I set up a degree wheel and fixed pointer on the opposite end of the crank. I used a piston stop on cyl 1 to verify TDC.

[grom_e30]

your degree wheel and pointer can they stay on the bike with the engine running briefly? if so you could use that to verify you tooth #1 is correct by strobing that as your reference

[Izzo675]

your degree wheel and pointer can they stay on the bike with the engine running briefly? if so you could use that to verify you tooth #1 is correct by strobing that as your reference

yeah, I can try that.


I'm not sure if my settings on this are correct or not

[grom_e30]

yeah looks fairly normal you do need to add the tooth#1angle(deg btdc) setting, i may be wrong but i believe you need a cam sensor on your setup as well.

[Izzo675]

yeah looks fairly normal you do need to add the tooth#1angle(deg btdc) setting, i may be wrong but i believe you need a cam sensor on your setup as well.

OK, I added a 1k resistor between TPS and WLED. I checked timing on cyl 1 with a timing light , base timing is 7* BTDC. 7* is what I use for my tooth #1 angle correct?
Cyl 2 and 3 are not getting spark. wasted spark and single coil are the only settings that will work without an error code coming up.
I'm assuming that the lack of spark in 2 and 3 is from not having a cam sensor.
what cam sensor would you suggest I adapt to my engine ?

[grom_e30]

for the cam you just need a single tooth per engine cycle (2 turns of crank) so the ecu can tell what phase the engine is on eg if the next tdc on cylinder 1 is tdc top of compression or tdc top of exhaust stroke. i dont think you can do wasted spark with a odd number of cylinders

[dontz125]

I agree with the comment about three cyls and a cam sensor. I await correction by wiser heads.

If your bike doesn't have a cam sensor, my QuadraMAP sensor module can provide a 'cam' signal by monitoring the MAP pressure of a particular cylinder. The price for a 3-sensor unit would be $110. No drilling of the valve cover required.

[racingmini_mtl]

The only way to avoid having to use a cam sensor with a 3 cylinder engine (and any engine with an odd number of cylinders) is to "cheat". If you set your Microsquirt for a 6 cylinder engine, you can run only a crank signal and wasted spark but you'll have to change your firing order from ABC to ACB.

Note that this is not an officially sanctioned configuration but a cheat. So if you don't understand how that works and you break something, you're on your own. Use at your own risk.

Jean

[dontz125]

Breaking engines is generally considered a "Bad Thing (tm)", but - what could happen? I don't see the spark situation getting too far out of whack; is there a problem with the fuelling equations? Granted, 2 channels into a 3-cyl while supercharged is an interesting situation to begin with, but how bad can it get?

Not objecting or refuting anything, genuinely curious ...

[racingmini_mtl]

I don't think there is anything inherently risky or problematic with doing that on the fueling side. I was mainly making a blanket statement of not doing something blindly.

But if you do not change the firing order, you will have 2 cylinders that are 120 degrees off so that could create issues when you try to start the engine (and if by some miracle you find some combination of timing settings that allow you to actually start the engine, the ignition timing will be completely out of whack for all cylinders). And if you don't understand what I mean by this firing order change, don't try the cheat. A search on the forum might help because I've explained this cheat more than once (but I have no idea how easy that is to find).

Jean