no rpm/ no start

[balzonya]

hey guys, im in desperation mode right now. truck was supposed to be running 3 days ago so sorry if this has been asked...

Problems/Symptoms: on the stim test board, everything except the RPMs worked as they should. says "Not RPM synced" in the boxes below the gauges on tunerstudio.
in the truck, pretty much the same thing on tunerstudio. when I try and start it, it just cranks. RPMs don't move. no puslewidth. no power at the injector wires. we do have spark. but no start. doesn't even attempt to.

alright, assembled my ms 2 ecu kit w/ PCB3.0 as instructed from the manual (after doing a lot of reading, this might have been from the outdate manual)
then I followed the "required steps" from this link - https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tec ... your-22re/
a few things from this site were wrong/very misleading (afm delete wiring) but where I messed up I think was in this step here,

Required changes to Megasquirt:

The stock Toyota ECU uses a system called VAST to control ignition. This system allows the ECU to do complete timing control. It also means that there is a “black box” (igniter) between the distributor and the coil. As such, we have to make some very minor changes to the megasquirt system. I’m not going to go into the theory of WHY we need to make these changes (such as expected signal amplitude), but suffice to say that these changes need to be done, otherwise we can’t integrate with VAST.

Required changes:

For the ignition input:
Install a 1k resistor between the right side (non-band) end of D1 and the left leg (banded end) of D9. This is for a 12V pull-up. Note: the “side” is critical here.

For the ignition output on LED14/Pin36:
Bring the ignition output from LED 14 (D14) to a pin on the DB37 connector.

Use a small piece of wire from LED D14’s leg that’s closest to the DB9, over to the hole labeled IGN at the opposing side of the board. This results in the ignition signal OUTPUT on pin 36.

A 5v pull up is required for this connection. Use a 250 ohm (200-250 ohm will work) resistor from either one of the two 5v sources on the board (they’re labeled +5v). Just above the proto area. Run the resistor into one of these +5v holes to the wire itself – or directly to the hole labeled IGN.

now how I have it ran is one wire from "5v" with a 22.3 ohm (just checked the wire now and found out its the wrong resistor 22.3 and not the 200-250 ohms) runs to the "IGN" hole
and the LED d14 wire with no resistor also runs to that "IGN" hole.
is that correct? should they both go into the "IGN" hole?

EDIT: Added the msq and datalog

ENGINE INFO: 2.4L 4 cyc Toyta 22R-TE - .50 trim Turbo, 440cc Low impedance (3 Ohms) injectors, no resistor pack, aftermarket tacho, GM 2 wire IAT sensor, stock water sensor, stock toyota single coil VAST ignition, wideband o2 sensor, MAP sensor from MS2 motherboard. manual boost controller preset at 8psi. "turbo" RV cam. larger valves, high rise lifters. 91 octane gas. .

[LAV1000]

if you want to post a "MSQ" use the upload attachment tab, at the bottom left corner

[balzonya]

if you want to post a "MSQ" use the upload attachment tab, at the bottom left corner

yeah, I figured that out like 3 min after I posted the question. will it help with my question if I post the msq?

[billr]

Yes, the MSQ is vital to getting help. And post an MSL file, too, showing a starting (cranking) attempt.

[balzonya]

Yes, the MSQ is vital to getting help. And post an MSL file, too, showing a starting (cranking) attempt.

d*** it's not in the truck right now. I can reinstall it and get you those.

[balzonya]

heres the msq files

[billr]

OK, you MAP readings are bogus. That needs to be fixed, but isn't the cause of "no rpm"

What is your input for the "basic trigger"? Is this a sensor in the dizzy, what kind of sensor (VR, Hall, opto, points) and how many teeth on the trigger "wheel"? Post a "tooth log".

[balzonya]

This is from ALLDATA. thought it better to just copy and paste it cause I don't know the short answer for you.

The ignition system on these models includes an open or closed type coil and igniter assembly, a single, twin or triple pick-up distributor, and spark control circuitry within the TCCS system computer. A specially constructed distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs are used to insulate higher secondary voltages produced by the open type ignition coil, and there are no centrifugal or vacuum advance mechanisms, as spark timing is controlled entirely by the TCCS computer.
Timing signals are generated through magnetic induction by the pick-up coils, as in conventional electronic ignition systems, but these signals are transmitted to the TCCS computer rather than to the igniter assembly. The TCCS computer is programmed with optimum ignition timing values for all operating conditions. It uses signals from the pick-up coils to compute crankshaft position and signals from other sensors to compute engine and vehicle operating conditions, then adjusts ignition timing by controlling the switching function of the igniter assembly. The igniter assembly controls current switching through the ignition coil primary circuit, and therefore induction of secondary spark voltage.

but this ignition system is why the board had to be modified.
BUT after re-re-re-reading the DYIAUTOTUNE write up I found a major detail I missed...
the write up and modification were for a megasquirt 1 system and I got the megasquirt 2 kit. im assuming the base tunes I tried to use were also for the MS1 system.
ugh im not happy with how sloppy I was with my info gathering on this project. wasn't fully prepared for just how complex this was going to be. internet said just follow the instructions and youll be fine. well the aftermarket instructions are now getting me in trouble.

you think the different boards could be holding me back? I believe the info provided in the write ups were outdated.
what I was thinking is they make a ms2PNP unit that doesn't require any modification, so does that mean the boards/software have been updated to control this "special" type of toyota ignition system? should I just remove the extra stuff I added and give that a run?

[billr]

Sadly, I didn't look at that DIY link when you first posted it. I didn't realize you were trying to use some (3rd party, even!) PNP instructions for a MS2/V3.0 I don't know for sure, but strongly suspect that is a goodly part of your problem.

That Alldata quote indicates only that the dizzy has several different configs for that basic engine; 1,2, or even 3 sensors in the dizzy. Thus, that info doesn't help me much.

I suggest you post some good photos of the dizzy and the MS3 mainboard. Maybe somebody familiar with that system can help you sort out what you have/need quicker that way.

Can somebody confirm that the correct FW is loaded? I still haven't figured out how to do that. Educate me on how to do so if you are in a patient mood...

[balzonya]

I believe its a single coil and single sensor dizzy set up. but something about the Toyotas "VAST" ignition was, apparently, funky with the MS systems.

all the instructions I used were from the DIYAUTOTUNE site and that's where the kit came from. they were "confirmed" good but god knows how long ago. also the instructions didn't apply to the PNP system. I think they were just for the MS1 board.

yeah, im gonna go home and remove the extra wires and start from scratch with a straight, unmodded, MS2 board.

[billr]

Well, I better wish you good luck and bow-out here; I am too confused to try helping further. What I see when I click on the link in your first post is for PNP.

[balzonya]

Ok I think I at least figured out where I took the wrong turn.
I read the manual in depth last night, like I should have done from the start, and I found what I need to do to hook to the ignition.
I'll update this when I get the leads installed to the megasquirt specs.
I'm not gonna load any base maps and I'll follow the manual to input my specs.

[balzonya]

And I'm pretty sure you see a PNP file because I'm a dumbass and I think I installed the wrong firmware. In mad scramble to get it running I've tried everything I could. Like I said, I'm a dumbass and I should have read the manual right away, just like every page here says.

[balzonya]

you can delete this thread. I have taken the main board back to "factory manual" specs and im changing my ignition delivery system (coil on plug) so this thread is no longer relevant.
thanks for at least trying to help me, but you can fix stupid. haha.

[billr]

I commend your attitude. To me, you are inexperienced, not stupid. "Stupid" is when you refuse 'to consider that you might have made a mistake.

I think that is a good plan to get the board as "stock" as possible, it makes it more "universal" for any future uses and makes it easier for us to help you with further questions.

PS: I have no reason to think you loaded the wrong FW, but the link you posted clearly has (to me) a picture of an MSPNP, and instructions that relate to PNP. If you used that link for the build, that is what I think may be your root problem; using the wrong instructions for the build or mods to it.

[balzonya]

well thanks. that actual makes me feel a bit better. been beating myself up over this for over a week but I wont be giving up. actual I cant give up at this point but you know what I mean. haha.

yeah that DIYAUTOTUNE link was what I used to do the ignition mods. I used the manual to build the main board, then switched to the DIYAUTOTUNE page to finish it. and I think that's where I went horrible wrong cause I didn't bother reading any of the manuals cause I thought that link was the easy way out. after reading the manual in depth it was clear that the ignition mods I used from the link weren't at all correct for my board.
if I would have read the manual though I would be way ahead cause I would have learned about the coil on plug approach and would have done that right from the start and wouldn't of had to deal with this VAST Toyota ignition bull crap and wouldn't of wired it up wrong.
well you live and learn I guess. will make the next board I do much, MUCH easier.