Cannot get truck to idle

[tacomatic1]

Hey all,

Now I have been getting support over the phone/internet but I am at wits end here.

I am trying to tune out a 99 2rzfe motor.

Stock fuel system, with a turbocharger that has a 5 psi spring WG.

I am running a DIYPNP MS2/Extra with v1.5 board.

Injectors are stock, high impedance, 280cc-ish. Trigger wheel with 36 teeth, 2 missing. Dual ignition coils (wasted spark)

I have the req fuel at 14.6. A startoff VE table as well. I can attach tune and logs. The truck runs pig rich, and I have to keep the foot on the pedal for it to stay alive. Smoke billows everywhere it is awful. Sounds real sputtery.

Anyways, I had the PWM current limit at 75% but since changed it and it runs the same pretty much. 100% now with 25.4 ms threshold. My injector pw seems a bit high for idle conditions (4-5ms). I think i fixed the IAC as that was humming real loud before (ours isnt a stepper type). I changed the freq to 30.5*8 and it seems to work better and not make noise. I've tried everything to adjust ASE and Warmup Enrichment to try to lean it out. Even tried changing the REQ_FUEL down to see if the PW drops. I think something is up with my inj drivers..

The tune and log go together, this is after i put in a generated VE table, before this i had a pretty unrealistic and rich table, running quality has not changed much

[1uz_nissan]

Don't get to the point of ripping your hair out before asking for help.

Looking at the MSL file. Your temps are cycling in the 130 range. So, I'm going to guess that you don't have your CLT calibrated to your needs.

on the MSQ.
Spark table, make the timing advance less in the idle area. Take the 909 column, from 53.0 down to 30.0 and make the timing between 5 and 10 degrees advance. When the engine starts to stumble, it will get bumped back into running condition with extra timing.

The AFR showing in the log, does not really indicate pig rich. Have you calibrated your wideband? Have you made sure, beyond any doubt, that there is no exhaust leak interfering with the O2 sensor readings? If there is, you will just keep chasing your tail. You can remove the o2 from consideration, give it zero authority, and try tuning the old fashioned way, and get it close. Easily close enough to drive, before starting to rely on multiple correction factors, and feedbacks.

[tacomatic1]

I will attach another log I generated after the post. In that log I didn't get it up to NOT.

I did get idle to lean up a bit to 11ish when I brought the IAC PWM duty up to a more realistic level. I had turned it way down for some reason.

EDIT: Apparently my log is too big..can email it if necessary

[TrendSetter]

First set the whole ignition table below atmosphere for 0° of timing advance, and 45° anywhere theres boost.
Then go into your afr table and baseline the whole thing for stoich (14.7:1).
Once that is complete you should zero out your warmup table and any other correction tables.
Set your base fuel pressure for 22psi
swap spark plugs #2 and #3
your ve table looks a little low, id go ahead and just do a complete +50% modifier to it.
everything looked good aside from those minor changes.

[tacomatic1]

thanks dave.

so I plugged the stock ecu back in to run it to burn off all the fuel everywhere... ( i found fuel in my oil)

ran it to operating temp then swapped to the ms.

here's a log and a tune..

notice the pw's drop and the afr climb a tad as the idle rpm rises hunting around.

[tacomatic1]

i pulled 20% out across the ve table...truck ran worse, could barely get it to stay alive

[Matt Cramer]

What are you using for an O2 sensor? Any chance its reading is wrong?

Also, does the timing you see with a timing light match the timing TunerStudio is showing?

[tacomatic1]

LC-1 for the WB.

When I plug the stock ECU back in and run the truck it reads mid 14's at idle.

My truck is running so rich that there is gas in the oil, so I would think the low 10's AFR is believable.

I need to get a timing light and hook it up.

I am very new at this

[1uz_nissan]

You have to get the timing right. That will effect everything.

[tacomatic1]

Yeah. Right now this is what I am leaning toward; Not because of my knowledge (because I have none), but because it's the only thing I am not sure I have right in my tune/settings on TS. Would bad timing cause mega-rich conditions and high PW at idle? Any theories?

[Red_Baron]

Your engine is a 2.4, with 280cc injectors so you are using 14.4 (ish) REQ Fuel.

On 2 squirts alternating, this should mean your engine needs around VE 55-70 for the fuel at idle, and you only have around 30!

You engine is having lean misfire, I think!

You should remove the Wideband (for now), and set idle to 20degrees ignition advance, then tune the idle area fuelling against the engine MAP reading, aiming to get the MAP reading at idle as low as possible by adding fuel as it is idling. Also turn off your boost control setting, and idle control setting, just set idle on the throttle butterfly screw. This removes EVERYTHING from causing problems. Once you have the truck idling happy, you can check timing light, sort out the trigger offset, then bring back in idle control, then bring back boost control.

I also notice your MAP for fuel only goes to 100kPA? This is no good for turbo!

I bet it is very lean!

Good luck!
RB

[billr]

I'm going to disagree with that last post a bit... if you have never used a timing light to verify the crank position MS is using for TDC is correct, then that (checking with a light) must be the very first thing you do. Fundamental for all MS operations is steady sync, and that sync is correct!

[tacomatic1]

nah. my truck is running insane rich. gas everywhere bro. i get high. Def think it is the timing. Going to try to sort it out tomorrow. Will keep you all posted.

I have seen lots of 2rz's settings on MS....can the tooth#1 angle vary from vehicle to vehicle? I have seen some 2rz's have 270 deg, 80 deg, 53 deg, 95, and 100... I have mine at 95 and it runs sputtery and awful rich...

Anyways I should have my answer tomorrow

[TrendSetter]

make sure your #2 injector is wired correctly.

[tacomatic1]

So me and dave (Trendsetter) traced the problem to cylinder #2 when I pulled the plugs. It was not injecting any fuel so the other injectors were compensating. Opened the DIYPNP and corrected the jumper, now everything works great and we got right to tuning. Should be driving it home today on the MS! (120 miles)