Hi everyone, new to the forums and in need of help. We’ve chosen to go with a Microsquirt on our FSAE car this year. We’re running a 2005 CBR600RR. We’ve been having trouble getting our car to start, it seems that the spark timing falls out of sync. So we went back to check our crank and cam sensors and were hoping we could get confirmation that our signals look correct and that we cut the correct tooth off of the crank.
We are using a one tooth cam, and a 12-1 crank. We hooked up an oscilloscope to the VR sensors on both the cam and crank. Attached is a picture of the outputs. We have them offset vertically on the scope just for ease of viewing. Do these profiles look correct? Did we cut the wrong/correct tooth on the crank? Where/what should we check next? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
With a missing-tooth crank wheel any tooth you remove can work, the software allows you to set where it is in relation to TDC. Some positions, though may work better, check the manual on that. For getting it started, use "wasted-spark" (or wasted-COP) and just ignore the cam sensor. Beyond that...
I had the same problem you are having with my current project. (Its the first time I run sequential.) And just like Matt said, I had to offset my cam angle signal by about 20 degrees before my crank signal. Working great now!
Thank you all for responding. The team had taken the weekend off and hope to get back at it this week. I would like to keep you all informed as we progress to starting this engine.
We have been working on it today and trying to get the timing figured out. It seems something is still not correct. Here are the MSQ and datalogs in hopes you can find something we overlooked.
Are you saying you can't get the cranking timing, as shown by a timing light, to match what is set in TS? Can you configure it for "wasted-spark" or "wasted-COP" to try getting it going without having to have the cam sensor operable?
We switched to "single crank wheel input". It sounded better, but still not starting.
Our spark waveform still raises questions (picture attached).The yellow and green are the two different channels
If that is with a 12-1 crank wheel you should be seeing 11 physical teeth, but you aren't. The scope is showing 7 or 8 teeth. You need to fix that before the engine is going to start and run reliably.
We had the engine running and revving. It sounded like there were cylinders not firing. Now, the engine refuses to start again, with the same tune on when it started. The exhaust manifold is COLD on cylinder 1,2,4 but VERY HOT on 3 about 15 minutes after not firing. Here is a datalog and tune including when it was running an not running.
The trigger offset is set to 340. When we first tried to start it, I adjusted it to 338.5 and it ran significantly better.
I then adjusted the required fuel to 5.0msec instead of 5.3msec because it was spitting fire like crazy. The engine did not respond nicely, it wouldn't start. I switch it then to 5.5msec but no luck starting. I switch back to 5.3 and it didn't start again.
