Cranks but no start/spark

[grom_e30]

timing may be advanced some my bike is 5btdc at idle from the factory do you have any info on the factory spec, could try lowering the cranking advance see if that helps with the starting i found best starting 0btdc less kickback. again id go up about 100rpm on 'cranking rpm' setting in 'startup/idle' its more of above this number the engine is now running not the speed the engine cranks at.

[ErnieJones]

I tried lowering the cranking advance down to 5, it make little difference but I will go lower and see.

I put the stock ECU back in to get the thing properly warmed up and it didn't want to start.......

Looking at the plug and I see that it's been absolutely filthy stinking rich by the looks of it. Normally the plug in this bike is bone dry and white as dust.

[grom_e30]

yeah may be a little bit rich lol

[ErnieJones]

It's almost time to quit for the day The good news is a great deal has been eliminated from the equation!

[grom_e30]

by the sounds of it most stuff is working as it should be, and that means you have to get on and tune the thing get it running rite.

[ErnieJones]

I think that's the thing. All the sensors except baro are right and that one is going to be fixed tomorrow. Timing is correct. In fact, I'm really, really surprised how well the hardware and settings work turned out.

Any good links on the actual tuning side?

[grom_e30]

the setting up manual covers the theory of it but some of it comes down to what the engine wants a bit of trial and error and lots of data logging and reviewing them.

[ErnieJones]

the setting up manual covers the theory of it but some of it comes down to what the engine wants a bit of trial and error and lots of data logging and reviewing them.

I've been going through it from the start (again) just to ensure all the steps have been taken. Just to be sure, does my CPS look OK? This is a cranking logfile.

[grom_e30]

looks like its reading ok, a composite logger will show with little red lines at the bottom if there is any sync loss during the log, you can def see the compression effect every other rotation with the different length of the tall bars.

[ErnieJones]

Oh-oh - you mean like these little red lines?

The sync loss gauge does increase - but this only seems to happen when the engine is cranking - I think. All I know for certain is there is no sync loss when the engine is running and it goes to full sequential without issue. So the sync loss must occur before it actually fires up.

[grom_e30]

was that composite log during cranking? if so looks fine to me as soon as it sync up its solid groups of 9 teeth then im guessing 3 gaps 12-3 wheel??

[ErnieJones]

Yes on all counts

So does this mean that some sync loss, during initial cranking, is normal?

[grom_e30]

its more common on lower tooth count wheels, and as your have a single cylinder one rotation the engine is fighting compression and will slow down, looking at it as bad as it looks, each line does not indicate a case of lost sync. after the engine has rotated round 2 times its all synced up i don't think you need to worry.