Tooth #1 Angle Question

[Scottie-GNZ]

Before I get to my question, I want to give MAJOR PROPS!! to James and anyone else involved in the development of the new documentation format. I've said it before but felt the need to say it again.

On to the question. I am running a 36-1 wheel with a DIYAutotune sensor on a V8. The documentation states the following:

It is desirable to place the missing tooth such that it passes the sensor when the engine speed is somewhat stable or it may be impossible for the ECU to "see" the missing tooth. The OEMs have found that certain tooth#1 angles work well and it is worth following their lead. It is suggested to align your wheel and sensor to arrive at the following tooth #1 angles.

.....8 cylinders ~40 deg

I have mine at 140 deg because of how I had to build the bracket and never gave it much thought until now. The engine gets spun to 7,000, and not having any issues that I know of, but OTOH, have nothing to compare it to. This got me to thinking, is there anything to be gained by trying to reduce that angle? I can reduce it 30* with a mod to the bracket but anything less involves things I would prefer not to do. Is it even worth changing it?

[grom_e30]

when i put a missing tooth wheel on my bike at first my tooth1 was 5* and i had a hell of a time starting the bike as it would have a hard time syncing up with the crank slowing + speeding up, i ended up remounting the wheel at 105 tooth1 and it has never missed a beat, i think if you dont have any sync issues with your setup you should be fine.

[slow_hemi6]

You don't get as much cranking variation on a v8 as you do with smaller cylinder counts. A cylinder is almost always on compression.

[Scottie-GNZ]

That makes sense. Thanks, guys.