Tooth #1 Angle Offset with Yoshifab 24/2 disk in DSM CAS

[jsdevel]

I'm having trouble understanding how to properly set the Tooth #1 Angle Offset in Tunerstudio. I have a DSM CAS installed on my volvo 240 b230. I've rotated the engine clockwise to TDC and verified that the camshaft is in the right rotation (intake valve just about to open). I also verified that the trigger disk spins clockwise with clockwise engine rotation.

IMG_20170113_144827.jpg

It's my understanding that I am to count the number of teeth on the crank track from the missing tooth on the cam track up to the sensor.

IMG_20170113_145138.jpg

Am I correct in setting Tooth #1 Angle Offset to 150 degrees ? (10 teeth x 15 degrees)

[billr]

Don't over-think it. Just disable the fuel and crank it to check spark timing, whatever you guess for its initial setting. See where the spark is, then move the offset in TS a little, like 5-10 degrees, and check again. If timing has gotten better (closer to desired), then keep moving the offset in the same direction; if it has gotten worse, then move the offset in the opposite direction. With just a few iterations of this process you can get the spark timing very close, without ever having to understand or use the Wizard or diagrams.

[jsdevel]

Don't over-think it. Just disable the fuel and crank it to check spark timing, whatever you guess for its initial setting. See where the spark is, then move the offset in TS a little, like 5-10 degrees, and check again. If timing has gotten better (closer to desired), then keep moving the offset in the same direction; if it has gotten worse, then move the offset in the opposite direction. With just a few iterations of this process you can get the spark timing very close, without ever having to understand or use the Wizard or diagrams.

I initially tried this with a strobe light, and ended up at 335 degrees BTDC. I'm having trouble starting though. Almost seems like the fuel is spraying behind the valve and puddling up or something. I should also note that when I used the strobe light I had ignitor test bulbs in series with the spark plugs. The spark plug wires on the coils I'm using aren't providing a very good induction point for my strobe, but the unshielded wire from the ignitor testor did.

[jsdevel]

Does the following picture from the manual apply here? If so, then I think I need to set 210 as the offset.

manual.png

[nathaninwa]

Is the write up on Turbobricks still up?

I'm running this disc as well and initially setup for 10* tooth angle but had some timing problems so I reclocked the dizzy itself and moved it to 60*

[jsdevel]

Oddly enough, I was able to get it to start at 0°

[jsdevel]

I initially tried this with a strobe light, and ended up at 335 degrees BTDC. I'm having trouble starting though. Almost seems like the fuel is spraying behind the valve and puddling up or something.

Turns out my issue was with the way I routed my PCV. I also added a custom cold air intake when I migrated to megasquirt, and routed the PCV directly into the manifold. As a result, my engine was flooded with engine oil which caused the hard starting.

billr, sorry if I seemed like I doubted your advice. The manual also confirms in several places under Mitsubishi CAS with aftermarket disk that you need to confirm with a strobe. I'm waiting for some parts to come in so I can properly route the PCV to the intake. Can't wait to get this going!