Duratec or MZR VVT Setup

[Leafy]

Finishing up setup on my 2.5 MZR swap into an NA miata. I've basically built this from scratch since I couldnt find any msq files kicking around the internet or any other ecu's files. This is the first MS I've ever done more than fix someone else's tune or just retune for more power. I've done ground up setups on Haltec but nothing with VVT. I dont even know how the VVT works in this engine to be honest, I've been spoiled by how well documented everything is on NA and NB miatas that dealing with the MZR/Duratec stuff is kind of a challenge.

So really a VVT setup, heck even screen shots out of ECUTec or some other tuning software would be good enough. A complete tune to make sure I've done everything else right would be great too.

Once I do get this fully running I'll make a quick write up for the next guy that wants to put one of these together.

[prof315]

VVT on an MZR works the same as it does on an BP4W in an NB. Since it's intake only you advance the cam to increase dynamic compression and broaden the power curve. The VVT solenoid is a fairly high frequency ( typically 300-500Hz) PWM controlled valve that manages oil flow to the cam phaser. I got an MZR L0 (2.0L) up and running on an MS3-Pro about 15 months ago. The MZR/Duratec is one seriously nice power plant, they can make very decent power per CI without a ton of modifications .

[Leafy]

Thanks, that makes it easier. I kind of figured it was just like the BP VVT with 50%DC to hold position, less to retard and more to advance.

[prof315]

Thanks, that makes it easier. I kind of figured it was just like the BP VVT with 50%DC to hold position, less to retard and more to advance.

No hold duty (BP VVT doesn't either with MS) use closed loop and set advance targets.

[Leafy]

So I had a strange issue on this car. I could get good VR signal from the crank once I figured out my battery voltage problem. But I couldnt get Hall signal at all on the composite logger. Except for a few rare cases where I got two hits at the start of the composite log and then nothing. I finally had the car and scope in the same room and figured out that I did need the 1k pullup resistor on the sensor, adding that didnt help. My voltage peak to peak is like 6.5V to 8.5V. I finally pulled up the spec sheet of the MAX9926 and realized hooking the 5V ref to the CMP- should help. It did. But then a cell blew out in lifepo4 battery so I couldnt crank and see if the d*** thing would sync. Running on exactly 12v from a near dead jump pack I could turn the motor by hand and register both cam and crank signal in the right relation with each other.

My question really is why did I have to do this? Why did no other thread on this engine mention having this issue/solution?

[prof315]

The MZR L0 (2.0L) that I squirted had Hall effect sensors for both crank and cam that required pull ups. I had no issues of that sort with my installation.

[Leafy]

Finally got around to the car today. I have a composite log and an regular log. It seems to flicker between sync and not sync.

[prof315]

You're running the wrong decoder. You need 36-2-2-2 not Zetec VCT

[Leafy]

But I switched to the duratec trigger setup. I have a 36-1 crank and 4+1 cam. I did it to future proof since all the good aftermarket cams are duratec and the 36-1 seemed better supported.

[opietrials]

I came across this older thread and was hoping I could get some advice. I'm doing a Duratec/Mzr 2.5 swap into an older car and I was planning on using the MS3Pro, but I have alot of questions about this setup:
Do I use the Duratec 36-1 wheel or the Mazda 36-2-2-2 wheel?
Do I use the Ford 2 wire coils or the Mazda 3 wire coils?
Do you have any suggestions on setup or supporting hardware/software or suggestions in general?

Thanks!!!

[jsmcortina]

Use the wheel that comes on the engine. VVT setup usually requires a "factory standard" configuration of crank and cam triggers.

James

[Leafy]

Just use the matching trigger setup. If you use the mazda triggers you need to turn it on in the config file. If you use 2 wire coils you need an external ignitor, I'd recommend getting some coils out of an LS equipped GM truck from the junk yard and either custom plug wires or Ford Ranger duratec wires.