4AGE Coil Over Pack (COP) Conversion Settings

[aukword1]

Hello,

I recently decided to attempt to free up some engine space since the distributor cap gets in the way of my turbo. Anyhow, I decided to use 1NZFE coil packs and keep half the distributor with a blanking plate in my 4age for the cam angle sensor. I finished all of the wiring and now I just need to know how to adjust the settings in tuner studio to adopt this new ignition system. I wired the signal wires directly to the ECU, cylinder 1 = Spark A, cylinder 2 = Spark B, cylinder 3 = Spark C, and cylinder 4 = Spark D. Now when I try cranking the engine it just turns but no spark and the coil packs get hot as s*** (which I'm assuming is the dwell settings). Anyone have any experience with this type of setup or have any suggestions? Any help will be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Terrance

[CRSTune]

Please post your MSQ.

The coils need to be wired in firing order, not cylinder order. You need to wire the outputs as such:
A: Coil 1
B: Coil 3
C: Coil 4
D: Coil 2

[aukword1]

I will send my MSQ once I get home. I will also change the plugs to match that firing order. Also, I still have the stock coil connected, should I disconnect this?

[CRSTune]

I will send my MSQ once I get home. I will also change the plugs to match that firing order. Also, I still have the stock coil connected, should I disconnect this?

Absolutely disconnect it.

[suberimakuri]

2.5ms dwell for those cops is what we run.
Check your going high/going low settings.
They shouldn't get hot. You may be backwards, I don't have access to one of our tunes now sorry.

[aukword1]

My current dwell setting is 3.1ms, I will change that. Also, I attached my msq file and placed the COP's in correct firing order. I will try the wasted COP setting with the stock coil disconnected and see if this works

[CRSTune]

You can't run COP with a basic trigger spark mode. There is no cylinder identification.

[aukword1]

Here is the corrected data file I was using plus a screenshot of my tunerstudio. Which spark mode should I use? Also, even with the 2.5 dwell settings my COP's still get really hot. Could my wiring be wrong? I have them wired into my fuel pump relay for the 12v power and the same ground as my AFR gauge (which works fine). Also attached is a data file from when I try to crank it.

[CRSTune]

Being a 4AG, you need to be running a toothed wheel mode with the later model CAS. Specifically, you'll need to run dual wheel mode and have both the crank and cam signals wired in.

[aukword1]

So the distributor that I have being the 4/1 tooth distributor doesnt work and i need to get the later model 24/1 model distributor then run it in dual wheel mode?

[CRSTune]

Correct

[aukword1]

alright, thank you. I appreciate your help and I will update the post when I acquire a later model CAS distributor. Thanks.

[dontz125]

Hang on - if you have a 4/1 dizzy, it should still work. It won't as well as the later 24/1, but it should still be fine for proof-of-concept and running with some conservative timing. As CRSTune mentioned, you need to run dual wheel, 4-0 cam speed 'crank' wheel and a single tooth 'cam' wheel. That really should work, and will allow you to get your wiring and dwell etc sorted out while waiting for the postman with the new dizzy!

[aukword1]

Awesome thanks...i will try that for now while waiting on the new dizzy

[aukword1]

update.. so I found out why the COP's were getting hot and fixed that issue. Also updated my tune. Is this how it should be set up to run with the 4/1 dizzy?

[CRSTune]

Looks about right. Only way to find out is to test it.

[aukword1]

still doesn't want to start up. Should my spark mode be set to toothed wheel?

[dontz125]

Yes.
Trigger Wheel Arrangement = [Dual wheel]
Trigger Wheel Teeth = 4
Tooth #1 Angle is something you need to check and set ; see the manual
Wheel Speed = [Cam wheel]
Second Trigger Active On = [Rising Edge] ; (this is a 'try it and see' setting. If it doesn't work well, try Falling Edge.)
And Every Rotation Of [Cam]

[aukword1]

Okay so last question (for now), do I have to set the timing again even though it was timed before the conversion?

[dontz125]

Only one way to know for sure ... The thing is, you aren't *setting* the timing, but rather figuring out what the tooth #1 angle is so you can tell the MS. If you already have that info - great! Enter it in TS, and then check it again using fixed timing (in TS) and a timing light (in the engine bay).