4AGE Coil Over Pack (COP) Conversion Settings

[aukword1]

okay makes sense. So basically, whatever tooth is at #1 I have to set the angle to match it correct? So lets say my tooth is at btdc and then I'd set it at 0?

[dontz125]

So lets say my tooth is at btdc and then I'd set it at 0?

? Please re-read what you wrote, because it's hurting my head ...

[aukword1]

Sorry was kinda boozy when I wrote that. So basically since I have only 4 teeth on my distributor, I can only have four possible scenarios correct? (90, 180, 270, 360). When the engine is at tdc, the dizzy will usually be around the 1 plug which would make that 90 degrees correct? So unless my timing is off, my degree angle should be set to 90. Unless I am misunderstanding where the angles are coming from and have to get a degree wheel for the cams.

[dontz125]

If your ignition timing spans a range of 10-30 degrees BTDC, the towers are probably at 20*. The actual VR teeth will be significantly in advance of that, because you need to dwell the coil before the rotor gets to the firing position.

In TS, under Ignition Options / Wheel Decoder, set [Fixed Advance] (top of the right side) to "Fixed Timing". [Timing for Fixed Advance] (just below Fixed Advance) is typically 10deg for this operation. Crank the engine over, and check the timing advance for the #1 cylinder. If it ISN'T 10deg (or whatever you have it set to), adjust the [Tooth #1 Angle] until the timing light reads 10deg BTDC.

[aukword1]

I think I understand. But, I am still unable to get the car running to check the timing. Would you have to adjust any of the fuel injector settings when running a sequential ignition setup?

[suberimakuri]

Keeping in mind engine cycle is 720 degrees...

Follow this to find tooth 1 angle and/or use dontz125 method.
http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS3 ... 4-150.html

Re: Fuel Injectors.
You need to set the outputs that you are using, eg mainboard or MS3X.
Whether you actually do sequential fuel injection is another matter. You could just do batch injection and that would be fine.
You really need to go through the TunerStudio manual for the relevant sections.

[slow_hemi6]

Somebody needs to correct me if I am wrong, but I will take a shot at this also. From what I have seen the 4/1 has 4 teeth, each one 180 crank degrees apart. Plus a cam tooth (upper) that occurs 10 crank degrees after one of the 4 lower teeth.
As you are using Dual Wheel you have a crank input (4 teeth/720 crank degrees) and a cam input (1 tooth/720 crank degrees).
Tooth #1 is the first(lower) tooth to pass the main sensor after the single(upper) tooth has passed the second sensor.
So you need to put the engine on TDC compression cyl1. Then turn the engine backwards till the upper single tooth lines up with it's sensor.
Now turn the engine forward till the next lower tooth lines up with it's sensor. Should have had to turn about 170 crank degrees.
MS now needs the amount of crank degrees you have to turn in the forwards direction to get back to TDC compression cyl1, entered into the Tooth #1 Angle btdc setting.
That should get you close enough to use a timing light to fine tune the tooth #1 angle with fixed timing.

[aukword1]

Okay I will try that method to gain the angle. Also, I noticed that I am not getting an rpm signal when I am cranking the engine. Is this normal?

[dontz125]

No displayed rpm signal means the MS doesn't know it's turning, or can't figure out what it's being told. No rpm = no spark & no fuel; rather explains why the engine isn't coughing when you crank it.

Check your sensor wiring & settings.

[suberimakuri]

Use the composite logger in TunerStudio to confirm whether or not the ecu is seeing the teeth pass the sensors.
Once you've confirmed the right number of teeth are showing (both crank and cam) then it will be a timing or setting issue.

It takes a few moments for the logging to start. Read the Tuner Studio manual for specific instructions.

It will take a lot of cranking which is hard on battery/etc. You may want to spin the dizzy in a drill first to confirm the signals... albeit most drills won't go down to 100-200rpm cranking speeds.

[aukword1]

This may be a dumb question but on the MSPNP gen 2 I noticed that it has jumpers on the mainboard for IGN A/C and IGN B/D. I assume I have to set these jumpers to run in sequential control via AELD and WLED correct? Maybe this is my issue?

[Matt Cramer]

Yes, you do need to set a couple jumpers to get all four spark outputs.

[aukword1]

Okay, thats what I figured. I wired my COP's to a waste spark mode, basically just Spark A output to COP's 1 and 4 and Spark B to 2 and 3 just to see if it would work that way. Still no rpm signal. Went into test mode to see if the coils would fire. Only spark plug 1 was firing. I will bench test the other 3 coil packs just to make sure they are working, if not I might have to replace them. Also I will do the composite logger today to see if the teeth are being detected (seeing is that is the main issue so far). Will update with results.

[aukword1]

nothing being picked up on the composite logger. Just gonna source an EDIS system and delete the whole distributor.

[aukword1]

Anyone know what wire I would need to send from my distributor to the cam sensor input on my ECU?

[CRSTune]

It should be a green wire.

[suberimakuri]

For Edis or Toyota?
The wire colours often change at the plug so best to take dizzy cap off and trace from appropriate sensor.

[aukword1]

For Toyota, apparently that is what I am missing from my setup. The ECU isn't even reading the distributor as a cam sensor. So I figure if I wire that to the input on the ECU for the cam sensor then it should read it. Will update later tonight with results.

[dontz125]

I've lost track - how many teeth does the cam wheel have?

[CRSTune]

I've lost track - how many teeth does the cam wheel have?

4 crank, 1 cam. Both are at camshaft speed.