Wideband options

[ffr3247r]

Currently using a Innovate LC-2 and it's been a headache since day one. I've done all the things they say I need to do and I'm tired of it. Doesn't work more than it does.

What's a better wideband? I've read since I bought it that the innovate is not that great.

[ironwill11]

Currently using a Innovate LC-2 and it's been a headache since day one. I've done all the things they say I need to do and I'm tired of it. Doesn't work more than it does.

What's a better wideband? I've read since I bought it that the innovate is not that great.

I don't think innovate is that great. I have the MTX-L, along with some others on here. It gets the job done when set up right. Innovate is kind of a pain to deal with as well. I was looking at an AEM one originally but went with the innovate since that is what DIY autotune sells.

Will

[Six_Shooter]

14point7.com

That's all that needs to be said, really, but I'll add some more...

I had a couple LC-1s back in the day, one day I couldn't connect to the serial port with my laptop due to flakey USB to serial converters, and decided to just buy the SLC_DIY1 that I had been looking at since it had a USB connection, and a display. I've been using 14point7 products since. I have the SLC_DIY1 an SLC_PP2, and a couple SLC_OEM modules, currently. Just to note I never really had any problems with the Innovate LC-1, just that it used a connection protocol that is outdated for consumer electronics.

I have however used some others just to get hands on experience with them. I traded one of the LC-1s for a PLX R500. which was the worst wideband controller I ever used. On hot days it would lock up. This seemed to be pretty common I found out after and people tried all sorts of things, like adding small fans and mounting in front od AC ducts (I have no AC, so not an option for me), I just kept it under the dash where it was cooler, and it would lock up less.

I have also used AEM in friends cars and I have an AEM Failsafe in my car right now, because I got a good deal on it and it fit what I wanted to do at the time, freeing up dash space, since the Failsafe is both a Wideband controller and boost gauge. If I had to buy new, I wouldn't it works well, but not worth the price IMO, since I'm not even using the Failsafe trigger output for anything, and I don't even use the logging part of it, since it's really quite limited without also adding in other AENet sensors and gauges to get enough data, like RPM, to go along with boost/Vac and AFR readings being logged... At some point I will put one of my 14point7 products back into this car.

I'm also going to mention that I just put in a large order to 14point7 that has 4 Spartan2s, gauges, and a couple other parts, that will be used by friends and myself. 14point7 products are less expensive products that just work, and work well.

[ffr3247r]

Thanks guys.

I've rewired, reflashed, made a heat shield, new sensor, it just is too temperamental for me. I need something reliable.

I bought it when I bought my MS3X from DIY since that what they sold. I should have done more research.

I'll look at 14 point 7.

[Rick Finsta]

TechEdge is also very good but with the caveat that you will likely need email for support (since they are in Australia). Shipping and such also takes some time.

I'm moving to 14point7 for future installs...

The AEM stuff seems to work fine in my neighbor's install.

[SwedCharger-67]

I'm using the Innovate MTX-L wideband controller and sensor...never a problem, on the contrary, I'm very impressed by the function and the flexibility of it.
I've used it on several cars, motorcycles and even checked my wood burning furnace with it.
E85, pump gas, wood burning gases, no problem whatsoever, flawless function!

[Six_Shooter]

I edited my previous post. It seems I may have given the wrong impression about my Innovate experience. I never had any problems with the units themselves, just connectivity with, through the outdated protocol for consumer electronics, that being serial RS232. At the time known good USB to serial converters were about half of what the SLC-DIY1 cost, I wanted one anyway, so it was my way to justify the purchase. One of the LC-1s I had ended up in a friends car (I traded him for the PLX POS...) where it was used up until last spring when we swapped out the engine management for something that has onboard WBO2 control.

I still prefer the 14point7 products over any other though.

And yes, now I have a rock solid USB to serial converter that I put together myself based on a Sparkfun FTDI RS232 to USB chip and a MAX232 chip, only cost a few dollars to make. I use this with my MS2 installs.

[nathaninwa]

I've only tried the LC1, but several sensors over a few thousand miles and the endless free air calibration turned me off. General forum reading has come to the conclusion that innovate has troubles with sensor heating, hit and miss

I've since been an aem fan, first of the 4100, then the. We 4110, i personally run two failsafe, one 4100 and two 4110's. With several more in our group going strong.

I've had issues with 14point7 showing calibrated correctly, but when compared to an aem installed in the same car and ran on the dyno, the Spartans showed almost 2 points richer, which actually made the motor run lean under power

[ffr3247r]

Leaning toward the AEM just because I like having the gauge to look at while not running the laptop.

[CRSTune]

I've had generally good experiences with AEM's wideband gauges (UEGO and failsafe versions). The only issues I've ever had involved defective sensors out of the box (or very shortly after installing). Typically the signal value is within 0.1AFR with the gauge's display on my installs. My own personal gauge for my car has been running great for the past 3 years with no issues.

[LSXCutty]

Using a PLX here. Past year no issues

[kaeman]

I used a lc-1 wb sensor setup with the gauge in the dash in my vehicle for 5 trouble free years, then the sensor failed with the e8 code(overheat) and I had to replace the sensor, that sensor lasted about a year, then I upgraded? to the dlg unit dual wb system from innovate, I have had two of the sensors fail, giving the e 8 code (overheat) and have replaced the sensors, I saw some post on the forum about sensor heater controller firmware upgrade, haven't done it yet. But plan to as soon as I get the engine back together(roller lifter failure) ran camshaft shavings through the engine. I like the gauges features, but I am hoping the update to the firmware will fix the sensor problems, when the sensors work they are spot on with the tuner studio gauge readings and the dash gauge. I hope the update fixes this issue, I am 4 new sensors into the dual system in less than a years driving. I will let you know what I find when I get the new engine fired up.

[mlynch]

14Point7 is the way to go. Cheaper and just as accurate. They work well.


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[kaeman]

Happy to note that the new firmware fixed my bad sensor error codes, the htr may turn on again while driving, but the gauge isn't giving the errors that it was, I have only made a couple test drives, but the last time I made the same drive the sensors had thrown the error codes and quit reading, the gauge and the readings are working properly now. I didn't have to put in new sensors. I will keep you posted, but the htr control fix in the innovate firmware helped me.

[kaeman]

The new firmware in the innovate dlg-1 is making the sensors read and stay working, but it now takes about 60 seconds for the sensor readings to turn on, rather than the 20 it used to take, the heater circuit stays powered up longer, before readings show at the gauge and the Megasquirt input.