Twin Turbo Delorean Not Starting

[TwinTurboDeLorean]

It might be the other way around, a bad connection or perhaps pot adjustment might be causing it to loose the tach input and each time it does that, it might be registering sync loss. Most systems record a sync loss when you key off but keep logging. The zero rpm might be triggering the sync loss counter.

I have pots full ccw. Ill triple check connection

[TwinTurboDeLorean]

After no luck adjusting pots per manual I have made preparations to go with a crank trigger wheel setup. Waiting for parts....

[grom_e30]

i think billr may be on to it with the non symmetrical trigger edges. the crank wheel will give you more accurate ignition timing as well

[TwinTurboDeLorean]

OK, doing away with the distributor VR setup. I have the trigger wheel now, a 36-1. I have the engine at TDC. I have the Sensor from DIYAUTOTUNE installed. I have been researching which tooth to line up with the sensor before tack-welding. I'm seeing 6 teeth before gap and 12 teeth before gap (both with sensor perfectly lined up with tooth). I have MS2 version 2.357. I am currently using stock PRV odd-fire V6 distributor with mechanical advance tack-welded. I wouldn't mind going to distributorless in the future.
Would someone please help me confirm the tooth to line up with the sensor so i can tack-weld it and put this back together? I should be able to figure out how to make the adjustments in tunerstudio.
I also attempted to research but could not 100% determine if i have to make any hardware changes inside MS2 such as jumpers etc. Does anyone know the answer on this? I sent an email to DIYAUTOTUNE but haven't heard back yet...hoping to have this running and with any luck driving this weekend...
Thanks for all of the help on this!

[grom_e30]

over the 6th tooth should be fine, as you are using a toothed wheel you can place it pretty much anywhere and adjust the tooth #1 angle. if the sensor is over the 6th tooth you will be in the region of 50 tooth #1. what type of sensor is it a hall? if so you will need to twiddel the pots again

[TwinTurboDeLorean]

over the 6th tooth should be fine, as you are using a toothed wheel you can place it pretty much anywhere and adjust the tooth #1 angle. if the sensor is over the 6th tooth you will be in the region of 50 tooth #1. what type of sensor is it a hall? if so you will need to twiddel the pots again

This is the sensor: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/hal ... on-sensor/
What do you mean by "50 tooth #1"?

[grom_e30]

http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS2 ... .4-66.html for setting the pots ect

http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS2 ... 4-122.html
http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS2 ... 4-123.html

explains the tooth #1 angle. with the sensor over the 6th tooth this angle will be about 50

[billr]

You mean the missing-tooth gap is "50 degrees BTDC", correct? I know 50 is about optimum for a even-fire V8, but is it also good for this odd-fire V6?

OP, note that this crank angle is really only of some concern to get sync while cranking. Once the engine is running it doesn't matter much. Anywhere you put it can probably work.

[grom_e30]

on an edis6 the sensor is clocked over the 6th tooth, that would be an even fire 6 cylinder but should be close enough i would have thought, you don't want the missing tooth to happen near a compression stroke. i made a mistake and ended up with a tooth #1 at 5btdc and on a bike engine (inline 4) with 13-1 compression it was a bit of a mare to get it to sync during cranking as a result of that.

[TwinTurboDeLorean]

Ok. So I am going to put the engine at TDC and line up the hall sensor with the 6th tooth before the gap and lock it down. Everyone agrees it will be fine that way?

[billr]

I'll agree the 6th tooth should be OK, but see my reply to your PM, too.

[TwinTurboDeLorean]

See attached log please.
I got it running with trigger wheel and set at 50 degrees in TS.I'll share the msq in the next post.
It fired up pretty easy. It ran a long time to warm up. Water and Air temps good.
Then when warmed up I decided to turn it off and make sure I could start it back up before trying to take the first test drive..I thought I was finally ready...
It dies after 5-10 seconds but will start right back up.
A couple things I noticed:
-AFR gauge either reads 12 or way lean, doesn't fluctuate at all between. It was seeming running correctly before I switched to crank trigger...Am I looking at correct gauge?
-I was trying to set the idle with the idle screw on throttle body and it seems to either go higher than my target 900 or drop down too low, I can't get it to hold where I want. Giving the engine a slight rev seems to lower the idle but then it creeps back up...
-Trigger Wizard is now grayed out. I can't access it. I want to be able to adjust actual timing and what the ecu seems. How do I do this?
-It is definitely rich at idle. Id rather it be rich than lean, but working on the bins after i can get the above issues resolved.
I appreciate any help all of you can offer....msq next...
thank you again.

[TwinTurboDeLorean]

msq attached

[grom_e30]

It dies after 5-10 seconds but will start right back up.
thank you again.

prob is running lean, for the first few seconds after a start you get extra fuel from the ase

-AFR gauge either reads 12 or way lean, doesn't fluctuate at all between. It was seeming running correctly before I switched to crank trigger...Am I looking at correct gauge?
thank you again.

trigger wheel settings will have no effect on this maybe check you have not knocked the wiring ect.

-I was trying to set the idle with the idle screw on throttle body and it seems to either go higher than my target 900 or drop down too low, I can't get it to hold where I want. Giving the engine a slight rev seems to lower the idle but then it creeps back up...
thank you again.

this will be closed loop idle fighting what your are manually trying to do. you may be better setting it to open loop / warm up. that way you get a graph and you just use that to change the step count of your idle valve to give you the desired idle speed at various temp points.

Trigger Wizard is now grayed out. I can't access it. I want to be able to adjust actual timing and what the ecu seems. How do I do this?
thank you again.

no you need to adjust the tooth #1 angle

[turbo conversion]

Your last msq is showing Basic Trigger, do you have a current one?

David

[TwinTurboDeLorean]

"no you need to adjust the tooth #1 angle"
So is the following procedure example the proper way to do this?
-Currently at 50 and spark table doesn't match timing light degrees at x rpm
-lower from 50 (ex down to 45, 40) to retard timing to match timing light
-increase from 50 (ex up to 55, 60) to advance timing to match timing light
I will increase ASE to help with the issue of it dying shortly after startup when warm
I will switch to open loop mode for IAC
Investigating any issues with LC-2, it has an LED to provide any error codes

Thank you for the help. Maybe tomorrow I can move to the street...

[TwinTurboDeLorean]

Your last msq is showing Basic Trigger, do you have a current one?

David

Hmm, looked earlier and it was changed, ill provide it in the am

[whittlebeast]

See this post. It works for me. Hope it helps.

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 0&#p498897

[TwinTurboDeLorean]

I drove it!!!! See latest log. It will drive ok, but there is some sputtering under load and if i allow boost to build and let off it sputters. any thoughts on this?

2017-06-04_16.17.38.msl

[TwinTurboDeLorean]

see attached msq as well.

bestyet2017-06-04_15.24.37.msq