FIXED: Forcemotor control
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Re: Forcemotor control
What measured line pressure psi do you get at "0%" ?
James
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Re: Forcemotor control
dont have that readingjsmcortina wrote:What measured line pressure psi do you get at "0%" ?
James
I had just taken the gauge of the trans and couldnt feel my fingers any more...I am in front of the house on the street. and its freezing. I had borrowed the gauge and goes back to my friend tomorrow....
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Re: Forcemotor control
You really need that one though!!kikkegek wrote:dont have that readingjsmcortina wrote:What measured line pressure psi do you get at "0%" ?
James
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Re: Forcemotor control
ok, check...dressed up and went back out again and took the measurements.
heres the vdideo, cold trans and engine though
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0v9pq7e7Ow
you can see how line pressure drops, then rises again and finally drops at 2%, 1% and 0%
4% - 120psi
3% - 120psi
2% - 100psi
1% - 100psi
0% - about 50 psi
heres the vdideo, cold trans and engine though
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0v9pq7e7Ow
you can see how line pressure drops, then rises again and finally drops at 2%, 1% and 0%
4% - 120psi
3% - 120psi
2% - 100psi
1% - 100psi
0% - about 50 psi
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Re: Forcemotor control
Something does seem a bit fishy here, possibly a number overflow in the firmware. I'll check it on a scope.
James
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Re: Forcemotor control
well glad I went out there again to take this video. hope you find something. thanks for the quick reply'sjsmcortina wrote:Something does seem a bit fishy here, possibly a number overflow in the firmware. I'll check it on a scope.
James
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Re: Forcemotor control
I tested on the scope using your MSQ and EPC test mode. The PWM duty from 0 to 100% works exactly as expected.jsmcortina wrote:Something does seem a bit fishy here, possibly a number overflow in the firmware. I'll check it on a scope.
I cannot explain the strange current behaviour you are seeing. As a test, connect the EPC (INJ2) output of the ECU to a headlight or sidelight bulb to 12V. (Aim for less that 55W.) Vary the duty from 0 to 100% and see what the bulb brightness does. That will eliminate the ammeter from the equation and see what a resistive load is doing.
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Re: Forcemotor control
hi James
did the test with a big T10 halogen bulb
test checks out fine. Full control from 0-100% of the power. This bulb uses 0.8A when connected to 12V. So about 10Watts
as you can see in the video the EPC output works just fine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0WC20G2ECc
Although I am happy my Microsquirt is working just fine. I am afraid I have to pull the trans to find out whats going on here.
Seems to be a problem with the force motor or something else hydraulicly ging wrong in the trans.
did the test with a big T10 halogen bulb
test checks out fine. Full control from 0-100% of the power. This bulb uses 0.8A when connected to 12V. So about 10Watts
as you can see in the video the EPC output works just fine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0WC20G2ECc
Although I am happy my Microsquirt is working just fine. I am afraid I have to pull the trans to find out whats going on here.
Seems to be a problem with the force motor or something else hydraulicly ging wrong in the trans.
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Re: 4L80E: force motor and line pressure control problem?
so the INJ2 output signal checks out just fine as you can see from the video.ashford wrote:
this code isnt just for 4l80, different solenoids have different impedance, for example the 4r70 has 3 different impedance epc solenoids the latest was high impedance and has a control range for me of 20-80%. also you can add a resistor inline with it to widen the window, i have done this to the 4l80 install i did as it works much better.
with the information you have posted it leads me to believe there are 2 possible modes of failure.
1. amperage readings are inaccurate and there is a hydraulic issue
2. wiring/solenod issue or failing/self protecting transistor in microsquirt
for #1 amp clamp style ampmeter are very inacurate at lower currents. there is a trick to this wrap the wire around the clamp 10 times in a coil so that the wire passes through the center 10 times an you will have a reading 10 times higher. also being that this is a pwm signal on an inductor this can do funny things. you might be able to get a more accurate reading in ac mode so long as you are in the 30-70% range. when doing an actual test it would probably be be best to do a dc reading on the switched power side with no flyback. with flyback it woul be best beteen transisot and flyback.
if that checks out fine i would then unplug the us find its pressure solenoid wire , put a jumper in it and ground it. if it has the same readings as when testmode has 0% there is a wiring problem from us to solenoid or solenoid. if it is different ther is a problem with the us, ground, horrible flyback, transistor or it is self protecting
Next thing I am trying is to ground the PCS and see if I also get about 3Amps.
And Matt said I could try adding a 1N4001 diode from the EPC solenoid wire to 12 volts, banded end to 12 volts. Nobody ever reported this issue, but the 1N4001 diode clamps the flyback voltage from the solenoid when it closes. Adding this can slow the valve's closing and help "park" the solenoid in the middle of its travel.
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Re: 4L80E: force motor and line pressure control problem?
put a jumper on the PCS (connected it to ground) and measured the current. Its about 2.5Amps. is that close enough to the 3A when in operation?kikkegek wrote:Next thing I am trying is to ground the PCS and see if I also get about 3Amps.ashford wrote:
if that checks out fine i would then unplug the us find its pressure solenoid wire , put a jumper in it and ground it. if it has the same readings as when testmode has 0% there is a wiring problem from us to solenoid or solenoid. if it is different ther is a problem with the us, ground, horrible flyback, transistor or it is self protecting
I did test the current KEY ON, but ENGINE OFF.
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Re: Forcemotor control
installed a 1N5819 diode, because I didnt have a 1N4001. But read online that its the faster better version, so assumed it was OK.
did two tests.
KEY ON, ENGINE OFF
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1B8s7x2LtLA
0% = 2.1A
10% = 1.65A
20% = 1.30A
30% = 0.94A
40% = 0.65A
50% = 0.39A
60% = 0.20A
70% = 0.03A
75% = 0.00A
KEY ON, ENGINE ON
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Hry_yybrlk
0% = 2.6A
10% = 2.20A
20% = 1.60A
30% = 1.16A
40% = 0.84A
50% = 0.54A
60% = 0.35A
70% = 0.05A
75% = 0.00A
so it seems like installing the diode fixed the strange readings on the force motor.
do these readings seems OK?
cant waite to take it on a test drive and see if the hard shifting is solved now.
did two tests.
KEY ON, ENGINE OFF
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1B8s7x2LtLA
0% = 2.1A
10% = 1.65A
20% = 1.30A
30% = 0.94A
40% = 0.65A
50% = 0.39A
60% = 0.20A
70% = 0.03A
75% = 0.00A
KEY ON, ENGINE ON
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Hry_yybrlk
0% = 2.6A
10% = 2.20A
20% = 1.60A
30% = 1.16A
40% = 0.84A
50% = 0.54A
60% = 0.35A
70% = 0.05A
75% = 0.00A
so it seems like installing the diode fixed the strange readings on the force motor.
do these readings seems OK?
cant waite to take it on a test drive and see if the hard shifting is solved now.
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Re: Forcemotor control
I am so happy right now............the transmission shift like butter. I cant even feel the shifts at the current settings. I need to check my Shadow Dash or TS display to know what gear I am in.
I guess now its just tuning to see where the smoothness turns into tight shifts...but I am so happy I have control over it now.
thanks for the awesome support
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Re: Forcemotor control
Nice to read you nailed it !
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Re: Forcemotor control
When I get chance, I'll update the documentation to suggest that diode is installed.
James
James
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Re: Forcemotor control
excellent. Thanks for the suport Jamesjsmcortina wrote:When I get chance, I'll update the documentation to suggest that diode is installed.
James
I already mailed a couple folk that were having simelar issues, hope it helps them too.
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Re: Forcemotor control
hey mate just a heads up, when you 'cant feel the shifts' is not great, you want the shifts to be firm.kikkegek wrote::
I am so happy right now............the transmission shift like butter. I cant even feel the shifts at the current settings. I need to check my Shadow Dash or TS display to know what gear I am in.
I guess now its just tuning to see where the smoothness turns into tight shifts...but I am so happy I have control over it now.
thanks for the awesome support
when you have the line pressure so far down the shifts are smooth you are causing a LOT of slippage in the transmisison frictions and its not going to last that long
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Re: Forcemotor control
thank you Jamies. appreciate that. That was clear to me. you dont want it to "slide" into the ext gear. I understand that will cause unnecessary wear on the friction plates. So I am currently tuning and test driving and upping the line pressure constantly looking where firm meets comfort.jamies wrote: hey mate just a heads up, when you 'cant feel the shifts' is not great, you want the shifts to be firm.
when you have the line pressure so far down the shifts are smooth you are causing a LOT of slippage in the transmisison frictions and its not going to last that long
the funny thing I shared this weekend on my Facebook project page is that the current line pressure table is very close to the table the firmware ships with ;-) . Guess those stock values arent that bad ;-)
ignore the LOAD values because I use MAP for load instead of TPS (which I dont have yet).
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Re: FIXED: Forcemotor control
For what its worth, I think with all solenoids connected to the injector outputs this is likely a good idea/fundamentally more correct (we don't want rapid opening and closing like an injector)
In a ford E40d install, I tried both with and without the diode. Without the diode I had to reduce line pressure to less than 5% to get and real reduction in line pressure, and the the pressure had an extremely rapid oscillation. With the diode, line pressure appeared to be at a minimum possible value below 60%, and linearly increase above that point. It was also very stable.
At "peak" (which occured between 40-60% duty cycle) temperature, I observed about 50 degree above ambient temperature increase of the diode. Above 60% line pressure it began to cool off.
While I have used the microsquirt trans stuff on several installs, I had never really reduced line pressure and tried to soften shifting (they were either stock trans, or race application that "all the line pressure" was what the owner wanted). This install was harsh enough low load I actually searched for a solution. Glad I found this thread.
In a ford E40d install, I tried both with and without the diode. Without the diode I had to reduce line pressure to less than 5% to get and real reduction in line pressure, and the the pressure had an extremely rapid oscillation. With the diode, line pressure appeared to be at a minimum possible value below 60%, and linearly increase above that point. It was also very stable.
At "peak" (which occured between 40-60% duty cycle) temperature, I observed about 50 degree above ambient temperature increase of the diode. Above 60% line pressure it began to cool off.
While I have used the microsquirt trans stuff on several installs, I had never really reduced line pressure and tried to soften shifting (they were either stock trans, or race application that "all the line pressure" was what the owner wanted). This install was harsh enough low load I actually searched for a solution. Glad I found this thread.
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Re: FIXED: Forcemotor control
thanks for your feedback. I havent found anybody yet that used the 4L80E stock and could give me feedback. nice to hear it helped you in another install too (Y)wes kiser wrote:For what its worth, I think with all solenoids connected to the injector outputs this is likely a good idea/fundamentally more correct (we don't want rapid opening and closing like an injector)
In a ford E40d install, I tried both with and without the diode. Without the diode I had to reduce line pressure to less than 5% to get and real reduction in line pressure, and the the pressure had an extremely rapid oscillation. With the diode, line pressure appeared to be at a minimum possible value below 60%, and linearly increase above that point. It was also very stable.
At "peak" (which occured between 40-60% duty cycle) temperature, I observed about 50 degree above ambient temperature increase of the diode. Above 60% line pressure it began to cool off.
While I have used the microsquirt trans stuff on several installs, I had never really reduced line pressure and tried to soften shifting (they were either stock trans, or race application that "all the line pressure" was what the owner wanted). This install was harsh enough low load I actually searched for a solution. Glad I found this thread.
my project page, BBC 454 with LPG vapour injection:
my BBC 454 LPG vapour injection tuning story
my Facebook projectpage:
My 1977 GMC C15 Suburban "Storm"
my BBC 454 LPG vapour injection tuning story
my Facebook projectpage:
My 1977 GMC C15 Suburban "Storm"