1.8t wheel decoder settings

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calrewire
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1.8t wheel decoder settings

Post by calrewire »

has anybody got any VW or Audi 1.8t specific 60-2 settings for the wheel decoder? Im dumb enough that I dont know how to use a timing light on coilpacks so setting it with a timing light might be rough, but obviously since all the wheels and sensors are in the same place one person with the right settings helps everyone involved, if you got em pleas post them.
calrewire
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Post by calrewire »

nobody?
bobnova
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Post by bobnova »

The timing light works the same way it would with a distributer.
Only difference is it'll flash every engine rotation instead of every other one.
I'm assuming that cyls 1 and 4 are one coil, and 2/3 are the other.

If that is the case it'll work perfectly clipped onto either #1 or #4 plug wire.
(#4 fires at the same spot on crank rotation that #1 does, so it works fine for setting timing)
calrewire
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Post by calrewire »

well I dont have plug wires direct wasted spark COP. The trigger angle I think I know but I dont want it to be wrong and I kill the car just cause a setting was off
bobnova
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Post by bobnova »

ohhh yeah, no plug wires (none at all? not like COP for half and wires to the other half? if it's like that you can use whatever wire...).

Failing that, take the plugs out, and turn the crank untill you can see the piston in #1, turn it back and forth till the piston as at the highest point possible.

Now check where the two filled in teeth on the trigger wheel are, and enter that number of degrees into megasquirt.


I'd been having a hell of a time getting my triggers set right (signal issues of some strange sort), engine has made all kinds of ugly sounds, but it's still in one peice so far...
LimaXray
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Post by LimaXray »

yeah, there is nothing to clamp an inductive timing light onto on the 1.8t.

you could take apart your timing light and trigger it with the (-) lead on the cylinder one coil. i dont think this would be hard and i was planning on trying it, but for now all my car projects are on hold.
1999 Audi A4 1.8t Quattro, Garrett T3/T04e, MSnS-E
100% GIAC and APR Free!
cdndub
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Post by cdndub »

Not sure why no ones suggested this.. but you can hook the inductive clamp around the ground or + wire for the coil it will still flash if there is a signal since the coil is being triggered its just not triggering on the output side of the coil like you normally would.

this method also works well for checking to see if your injectors are actually working.. you can clamp the inductive pickup around one of the wires going to the injector.. the light should/will flash if its working.

This wont work on sheilded wire but works ok on most regular automotive wire i've tried.

I'm also curious about the trigger angles for the 1.8T's and ABA's.. i havnt got a block handy to drop the pan on and work it out yet though.
calrewire
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Post by calrewire »

well Im gonna try this...

My plan from the start was to tap off of all wires for sensors that need to be shared with the stock ecm ie: coolant sensor, AIT sensor, vr sensor, power and ground. Then leave the stock comuter running the engine but I can play with trigger angles to see if it will read correctly. Ive heard TDC for #1 is 14 teeth including the two missing teeth so 12 physical teeth and 2 blank ones. From that you can determine trigger angle supposedly but having a turbo'd vehicle being off a few degrees in timing can spell disaster.
cdndub
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Post by cdndub »

pretty sure you cant "share" a VR sensor signal.. but it may be worth a try.

Also realized that my quick/dirty method for setting the timing sorta works, but given there is dwell on the coils the signal happens a few ms before the spark fires.. on the nissan i just setup this worked out to be around 1.8deg's at 1000rpm
calrewire
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Post by calrewire »

sharing the VR has been done, not on megasquirt as it seems nobody has tried , but 034efi and others do that and works fine. This is the only way to retain the stock tach as it is run off of the can-bus and is referenced to the crank sensor. If need be Ill run plug wires but my goal was to retain as many stock parts as possible so an unsuspecting person would not beable to tell anything was done.
mk1driver
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Post by mk1driver »

bump...
Projects:
375whp stock block 16v GTI, daily driven, V2.2
225whp 16v Golf, sits in rush hour every day

http://www.euronationmotorsport.com
Dark Lightning
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Post by Dark Lightning »

bump.

Any progress on discovering the proper wheel decoder settings on the Audi/VW 1.8t?
- John
1998 Audi A4 1.8t Quattro
MSI v3, MSnS-E 29t
A4seen Racer
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Post by A4seen Racer »

if anyone is still interested, I just recently fired up my 1.8t AEB using the 60-2 wheel.
my settings are
trigger angle - 60
trig A - 6
trig A return - 16
trig B - 36
trig B return - 46

so with the engine at top dead center tooth 16 is under the vr sensor.
i have not confirmed these settings yet with a timing light but as far I can tell by how it runs they're right on


calrewire, if you could explain some more about sharing the vr sensor I would love to hear it because i'd like to get my stock tach working
Dark Lightning
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Post by Dark Lightning »

This is great, A4seen. Good work. My car has most of the required maintenance done and I think I'm a the position to install the MegaSquirt soon. This will come in very handy.
- John
1998 Audi A4 1.8t Quattro
MSI v3, MSnS-E 29t
theturbodog
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AEB settings

Post by theturbodog »

I have an AEB running with the following on stock Crank+Cam sensors:

A=5
B=35
C=65
D=95

Trigger angle is 59 degrees

The return positions are irelevant for me since I use time based cranking. These settings work for me and line up with the timing light. If you are doing waste spark vs. 4 channel coil on plug you don't need the C and D settings of course. Anything close should get the car started, but check everything with a timing light until you get what you want.

I was also able to share the stock VR crank sensor and cam sensor with no load. I only shared the sensor during garage tuning to get the MS working properly and have since removed the stock ECU completely since I don't use it for anything. I did have to turn the VR voltage pot until I got a stable RPM signal though(about 8 turns).
Dark Lightning
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Re: AEB settings

Post by Dark Lightning »

theturbodog wrote:I was also able to share the stock VR crank sensor and cam sensor with no load. I only shared the sensor during garage tuning to get the MS working properly and have since removed the stock ECU completely since I don't use it for anything.
How are you providing a signal to the stock tach?
- John
1998 Audi A4 1.8t Quattro
MSI v3, MSnS-E 29t
A4seen Racer
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Post by A4seen Racer »

I started off trying to share the vr sensor but for some wierd reason the spot that I tapped into the vr (right at the stock ecu) had about .8 volts constant which caused all sorts of problems for me. I then connected the vr sensor directly and it worked fine. did you have anything like this turbodog? also what kinda car is your aeb in?
theturbodog
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Post by theturbodog »

Sorry. I forgot to mention the AEB isn't in an A4 it's in a Corrado. I didn't have to deal with the A4 chassis integration issues like tach and VSS.

I never tried to tap into the VR near the stock ECU. I had extra connectors laying around so I made a Y adapter so I could connect directly to the sensor itself.

I've considered bumping my teeth count up by 2 and lowering the trigger angle to 48 since I'll never really use 60 degrees timing even in overrun. In theory timing would be slightly more accurate with less delay between the trigger and the spark event, but I really have no idea if it would really make a difference.
eliotmansfield
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1.8t wheel decoder settings

Post by eliotmansfield »

if it's just for the tach, could you not just mount two VR sensors on the wheel, the additional one (which would be in the wrong place) just feeds existing ecu and provides your tach?
 
 How are you providing a signal to the stock tach?




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