Designing a new 36-1 Trigger Wheel, Min & Max Sizes
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Designing a new 36-1 Trigger Wheel, Min & Max Sizes
Yes, if you talking about this one triggerwheel.jpg.
The crank pulley is mounted on top of the timing belt pulley with 4 allen bolts. So there's no need to remove the timing belt and cover. Just undo those 4 bolts pull the pulley off and attach the triggerwheel to it.
There's plenty of space between the pulley and the cover.
SFC
The crank pulley is mounted on top of the timing belt pulley with 4 allen bolts. So there's no need to remove the timing belt and cover. Just undo those 4 bolts pull the pulley off and attach the triggerwheel to it.
There's plenty of space between the pulley and the cover.
SFC
Posted by email.----- Original Message -----
From: kalvinlk (junk@hobbez.net)
To: megasquirt-msedis@msefi.com (megasquirt-msedis@msefi.com)
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 11:47 PM
Subject: Designing a new 36-1 Trigger Wheel, Min & Max Sizes
Thanks for the picture: is that the wheel from the drawing you posted on the first page? Can you put your lower timing belt cover back on with that setup?
I was mistaken when I said waterpump drive pulley, as it is the pulley that drives the power steering pump. Sorry for the confusion.
This post is at: http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=98993#98993
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I have a suggestion;
If you're going to be paying to have a wheel fabricated, you won't want to do it more than once. To make the design more robust, leave the "missing" tooth in the drawing. That way, if you've botched the mounting angle or need the VR to sit somehwere else, you can grind off the tooth where you need it.
-Brian
If you're going to be paying to have a wheel fabricated, you won't want to do it more than once. To make the design more robust, leave the "missing" tooth in the drawing. That way, if you've botched the mounting angle or need the VR to sit somehwere else, you can grind off the tooth where you need it.
-Brian
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I'm very interested in the solutions you come up with, i'm thinking about lasercutting a 36-1 trigger wheel too for my 1.8 16v KR-engine.
I saw your picture, (black background), but the one from scirturbo i can't see?
My question is: is the size of the wheel, size of the towers and the size of the gaps important? Or can it just be any diameter, 36 tooth minus 1?
And how thick should the wheel be?
I'm thinking about an adjustable wheel, bolt on to the original 4 bolts of the crank pulley, with slots, so you can turn the TDC gap anywhere you want. That isn't hard to do i think?
Greets, Joris. I'll post the autocad-file, when i have a final design...
I saw your picture, (black background), but the one from scirturbo i can't see?
My question is: is the size of the wheel, size of the towers and the size of the gaps important? Or can it just be any diameter, 36 tooth minus 1?
And how thick should the wheel be?
I'm thinking about an adjustable wheel, bolt on to the original 4 bolts of the crank pulley, with slots, so you can turn the TDC gap anywhere you want. That isn't hard to do i think?
Greets, Joris. I'll post the autocad-file, when i have a final design...
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maybe easier: http://www.trigger-wheels.com/
Supercharged Austin Healey Sprite, Intercooler, spark control
MS1, MT2.25, extra code 029t
http://www.kmnet.demon.co.uk/arnold/
MS1, MT2.25, extra code 029t
http://www.kmnet.demon.co.uk/arnold/
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