Designing a new 36-1 Trigger Wheel, Min & Max Sizes
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Designing a new 36-1 Trigger Wheel, Min & Max Sizes
Hi All.
I am trying to design a new 36-1 Trigger Wheel for my car, as none of the other I have got my hands on so far will fit.
What I need to know is there a min or max tooth height needed?
And same again for the ring size?
So far I have a design of 130mm ring and 4mm teeth.
Thanks for your time.
I am trying to design a new 36-1 Trigger Wheel for my car, as none of the other I have got my hands on so far will fit.
What I need to know is there a min or max tooth height needed?
And same again for the ring size?
So far I have a design of 130mm ring and 4mm teeth.
Thanks for your time.
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something i was thinking at time of deisnging my edis wheels , came from when i test drove a new mustang v6... it had a 36-1 wheel on crank ( not sure if its edis or exact number of teeth but one was sure missing) this thing had be no bigger then 2" diamter almost looked like a timing belt pully.... i guess if u had the correct VR sensor to give good output (theres bunch out there) it probley work no problem.... my other idea was to use optics and have aLED with a infread transistor (have the entire thing closed off from light) this would give u a good single plus size wouldnt matter could be as small as a mouse tracking IR wheel ...
dont know my two cents, trying kill some work time
Sean...
dont know my two cents, trying kill some work time
Sean...
Im hear to take over everyone and there megasquirt, ive been there done that with my own EFI gizzmo's check my site out for more!!
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The tooth ring needs to be ferrous, but you could make it a 2-piece if you wanted with, say, an aluminum hub and a steel "ring gear" around the outside. That might have some benefits, too, since you could spin the trigger wheel and play with optimal orientation of the missing tooth.Mad Professor wrote:Now I need to know what type(s) of metal can I use for this?
Eric
efahl wrote:The tooth ring needs to be ferrous, but you could make it a 2-piece if you wanted with, say, an aluminum hub and a steel "ring gear" around the outside. .....
Eric
Couldn’t you make the wheel out of aluminum and just embed 35 steel slugs around the perimeter? The entire wheel could be flush. I would think you could even just thread in bolts and then chuck the wheel in a lathe and turn down the heads till they were gone.
The teeth don’t have to be linked to each other ferriaticly speaking, (is that even a word?) do they, i.e. all on one ring?
The aluminum flywheels made for use on Zetec Fords have 35 small steel dowls pressed into the the back of the flywheel, so if that setup works, the wheel you described should work as well.BRAAPZ wrote:efahl wrote:The tooth ring needs to be ferrous, but you could make it a 2-piece if you wanted with, say, an aluminum hub and a steel "ring gear" around the outside. .....
Eric
Couldn’t you make the wheel out of aluminum and just embed 35 steel slugs around the perimeter? The entire wheel could be flush. I would think you could even just thread in bolts and then chuck the wheel in a lathe and turn down the heads till they were gone.
The teeth don’t have to be linked to each other ferriaticly speaking, (is that even a word?) do they, i.e. all on one ring?
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It's a word now! (We'll add that one to the list... Eric has quite a few submissions there... we like to make up words around here!)BRAAPZ wrote:The teeth don’t have to be linked to each other ferriaticly speaking, (is that even a word?) do they, i.e. all on one ring?
A metal's ferric content is determined by it's composition, not is conductive state... it's just how much Iron is in the alloy.
A hunk of iron is just as "ferric" if it's floating out in space, or if it's embedded in a hunk of aluminium. A VR sensor will be able to detect it's presence equaly as well in either situation.
-Brian
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Designing a new 36-1 Trigger Wheel, Min & Max Sizes
I actually tested that and it worked great. Can take pictures of it.....
SFC
SFC
Posted by email.----- Original Message -----
From: allen22 (turbosforsale@hotmail.com)
To: megasquirt-msedis@msefi.com (megasquirt-msedis@msefi.com)
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 7:03 PM
Subject: Designing a new 36-1 Trigger Wheel, Min & Max Sizes
I'm wondering why I couldn't just have my crank pulley cut w/ the 36-1 pattern out of its outer rib? Would there be any problems with that?
allen
1995 Nissan 240SX/VQ35DE/6 Speed/MSII
This post is at: http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=96873#96873
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scirturbo: I am designing a 36-1 wheel for my 16v scirocco, and am considering several mounting styles. My goal is bolt on, no welding required as this opens up the possiblity for VW conversions with no welder or easy access to welding. How do you have yours mounted to the pulley, considering the pulley that drives the waterpump is mounted on top of the crank pulley? I am not sure if it's a good idea to stack this wheel on top of the waterpump drive pulley, because that will leave a gap between the back of the wheel and the surface of the pulley, meaning the pulley will only be "clamped" on by the wheel. Maybe two of the four bolts attached to the pulley and the other two to the trigger wheel? Also, I should be able to powdercoat this wheel without any problems, correct? I can't think of a reason that would affect the VR sensor.
I designed a couple brackets for my dad's work, and as payment I get some lasercutting for free, so I need to get this designed to go into the batch he is having done this week.
Here is the wheel; I am thinking about shrinking it down slightly:
I designed a couple brackets for my dad's work, and as payment I get some lasercutting for free, so I need to get this designed to go into the batch he is having done this week.
Here is the wheel; I am thinking about shrinking it down slightly: