MS 1 v3: MT 2.25: MSnS-E 024s13
I've had my vehicle running pretty dang well for awhile now, but I am getting some weird issues.
1. All 3 led's stay on, no matter what. Led 17 is spark, 18 is IRQ, 19 is acceleration. Also, they are very bright in the car, and much dimmer with a stimulator and 10-11volts.
I hooked this up to the stimulator, and now can't get Fidle to ever turn off, LED 19 stays on, and Led 18 is a very faint output. Led18 should be the Fidle, correct?
Any ideas?
LED's always on...
Moderators: jsmcortina, muythaibxr
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- Master MS/Extra'er
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Lets confirm that you are getting RPM in MT, correct? Assuming yes with the following response...
LED 17 should be on because it's triggering with your spark event. So lets say you're even at 100rpm and it's a 4 cylinder, that's still 200 sparks per minute or 3.33333.... blinks per second (which would probably appear to just be on all the time).
I'm not sure what setting LED 18 to IRQ would do. I usually have it either set to Output 4 or Warmup (when using X2 fo rfan control) so I cannot comment on why it should be on or not.
Since you have LED 19 set up for acceleration, it should only turn on when you are physically depressing the throttle. If it is not moving or your are lessening the value (decel), it should not be on. This is very simple to test on the pot.. when you're not touching the TPS pot it should be off, if you are turning it CCW it should be off. Only when you turn it CW should it come on and only while physically turning it.
LED 17 should be on because it's triggering with your spark event. So lets say you're even at 100rpm and it's a 4 cylinder, that's still 200 sparks per minute or 3.33333.... blinks per second (which would probably appear to just be on all the time).
I'm not sure what setting LED 18 to IRQ would do. I usually have it either set to Output 4 or Warmup (when using X2 fo rfan control) so I cannot comment on why it should be on or not.
Since you have LED 19 set up for acceleration, it should only turn on when you are physically depressing the throttle. If it is not moving or your are lessening the value (decel), it should not be on. This is very simple to test on the pot.. when you're not touching the TPS pot it should be off, if you are turning it CCW it should be off. Only when you turn it CW should it come on and only while physically turning it.
1995 Ford Probe GT ~ Megasquirted & Boosted
275whp/242wtq @ 5.5psi ---- 317whp/287wtq @ 8.5psi
^^^ (thanks to MSnS-E and dyno tuning by me!)
2003 GSX1300R (Hayabusa)
275whp/242wtq @ 5.5psi ---- 317whp/287wtq @ 8.5psi
^^^ (thanks to MSnS-E and dyno tuning by me!)
2003 GSX1300R (Hayabusa)
Thanks for the response. All the following is with a STIM, and not on the vehicle.
Led17 is on, like it should be, and works perfect.
Led 18 is really dim on the stim and makes a very faint pulsing, that coincides with the Fidle output shown on MT. Also when Fidle is off I can see some sort very very faint residual pulsing coming through.
Led 19 never turns off, and gets a little brighter when messing with the TPS pot. IT's probably 75% bright ALL the time, and 95% when an actual AE signal is given.
I got my Fidle to turn off, but I have to cycle from a low coolant temp to the shutoff/warmup point I've dictated in MT. If I plug it in with it set already high, Fidle continues to pulse.
Led17 is on, like it should be, and works perfect.
Led 18 is really dim on the stim and makes a very faint pulsing, that coincides with the Fidle output shown on MT. Also when Fidle is off I can see some sort very very faint residual pulsing coming through.
Led 19 never turns off, and gets a little brighter when messing with the TPS pot. IT's probably 75% bright ALL the time, and 95% when an actual AE signal is given.
I got my Fidle to turn off, but I have to cycle from a low coolant temp to the shutoff/warmup point I've dictated in MT. If I plug it in with it set already high, Fidle continues to pulse.
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- Master MS/Extra'er
- Posts: 497
- Joined: Sat Jun 12, 2004 6:27 pm
- Location: Worcester, MA
- Contact:
Try changing LED18 to Warmup and then turn your CLT pot up till Wamup is shut off in the Realtime display. Once warmup is off in the Realtime, if LED 18 is still on, I'd suggest it's a solder / electronics issue. Maybe you want to take a picture of that end of your board both top and bottom so we can see closer?
LED 19 sounds like it might be working then.. but maybe you have a solder flux that's jumping some voltage across to/from the LED.
LED 19 sounds like it might be working then.. but maybe you have a solder flux that's jumping some voltage across to/from the LED.
1995 Ford Probe GT ~ Megasquirted & Boosted
275whp/242wtq @ 5.5psi ---- 317whp/287wtq @ 8.5psi
^^^ (thanks to MSnS-E and dyno tuning by me!)
2003 GSX1300R (Hayabusa)
275whp/242wtq @ 5.5psi ---- 317whp/287wtq @ 8.5psi
^^^ (thanks to MSnS-E and dyno tuning by me!)
2003 GSX1300R (Hayabusa)
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- Helpful MS/Extra'er
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 9:26 am
I had all three LEDs stay on one on my MS 2.2. The engine just quit one day and the LEDs stayed lit. Turned out that I have some water dripping inside my car when it was cold outside and it was dipping into my MS and on the processor. If I dried the processor and board it would work again
1989 Dodge Spirit 3.0 MS1
A543 5 speed manual
A543 5 speed manual