REV limiter is 40 degree retard TOO much?!? Overboost Prote
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REV limiter is 40 degree retard TOO much?!? Overboost Prote
Hey guys... i have a quick question..
what is the proper spark cut for the soft rev limit retard?? I am using 40 degrees.. which I fear is WAY WAY WAY too retarded after some searching on the forums...
( I am running a inline 6, 2.8L SOHC, non cross flow head and 17psi on a 8.3:1 CR and MegaSquirt n Spark extra 021u and the stock Nissan dizzy)
is 10 degrees adequit?
I noticed when I go into the HARD CUT mode.. the RPM's go from like 6,200 RPM down to almost 4,200 RPM .. its a HUGE RPM loss.. is this correct?
another question is overboost protection..
is this damaging to the engine? during my datalogs when the hard cut kicks in when I overboost.. the MAP spikes up dramatically.. and looks like a MIS FIRE (which it is obviously) I fear this is damaging the engine rather than protecting it
what is the proper spark cut for the soft rev limit retard?? I am using 40 degrees.. which I fear is WAY WAY WAY too retarded after some searching on the forums...
( I am running a inline 6, 2.8L SOHC, non cross flow head and 17psi on a 8.3:1 CR and MegaSquirt n Spark extra 021u and the stock Nissan dizzy)
is 10 degrees adequit?
I noticed when I go into the HARD CUT mode.. the RPM's go from like 6,200 RPM down to almost 4,200 RPM .. its a HUGE RPM loss.. is this correct?
another question is overboost protection..
is this damaging to the engine? during my datalogs when the hard cut kicks in when I overboost.. the MAP spikes up dramatically.. and looks like a MIS FIRE (which it is obviously) I fear this is damaging the engine rather than protecting it
www.putfile.com/proxlamus
1978 Datsun 280Z turbo, running MegaSquirt n Spark Extra 021u =) controlled via PalmTune and PalmEdit thanks to Renns who kicks ass
1978 Datsun 280Z turbo, running MegaSquirt n Spark Extra 021u =) controlled via PalmTune and PalmEdit thanks to Renns who kicks ass
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Setting 40deg for your soft rev limit is a great way of damaging the engine. Perfect in fact.
40deg is way ADVANCED for full throttle on boost. 10deg is a sensible value to pick. You will have to play around with the cut x sparks ouit of y setting on the hard cut to see what works best for you.
James
40deg is way ADVANCED for full throttle on boost. 10deg is a sensible value to pick. You will have to play around with the cut x sparks ouit of y setting on the hard cut to see what works best for you.
James
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huh?? no the soft rev limit RETARDS timing.. it doesnt ADVANCE timing..
advancing timing under boost = catastrophic engine failure
advancing timing under boost = catastrophic engine failure
www.putfile.com/proxlamus
1978 Datsun 280Z turbo, running MegaSquirt n Spark Extra 021u =) controlled via PalmTune and PalmEdit thanks to Renns who kicks ass
1978 Datsun 280Z turbo, running MegaSquirt n Spark Extra 021u =) controlled via PalmTune and PalmEdit thanks to Renns who kicks ass
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If you tell it to use 40degrees timing then you have asked for advanced timing. That number is the absolute timing, not a retard from present setting.
Trust me, I helped write it and I use it on my car.
James
Trust me, I helped write it and I use it on my car.
James
I can repair or upgrade Megasquirts in UK. http://www.jamesmurrayengineering.co.uk
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I agree that the wording can be confusing - I'd never looked at it that way before.
It should say "soft limit timing (absolute deg)" and will be changed at the next maintenance release of 029q
James
It should say "soft limit timing (absolute deg)" and will be changed at the next maintenance release of 029q
James
I can repair or upgrade Megasquirts in UK. http://www.jamesmurrayengineering.co.uk
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So if you put 10 in the box for soft rev limit retard, it will make the timing 10 degrees any time the soft limit is activated? Not subtract 10 degrees from the value in your map?
~Chris
'95 Grand Am GT Quad 4 Turbo (316whp/286wtq)
'98 Dodge Neon R/T - srt-4 Turbo'd w/ MS
'92 Nissan Sentra SE-R - stock
'95 Grand Am GT Quad 4 Turbo (316whp/286wtq)
'98 Dodge Neon R/T - srt-4 Turbo'd w/ MS
'92 Nissan Sentra SE-R - stock
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Yeah because you don't want to just start adding/subtracting timing from whatever the current value is... what if your current value is 5 and you subtract 10? Also, you said you were thinking 40 would subtract 40 degrees... if you are subtracting 40 degrees at your rev limit that means you're hitting 40+ degrees at that rev limit... that seems very bad.
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Ok so for an example..
the base timing on my motor is 24* BTDC ... general timing of 38* BTDC across before boost hits... and at 5,500 RPM and 17psi the timing drops down to around 21* BTDC...
soo would hitting 5* BTDC be way way too retarded?? or should I drop the timing to ohhh around the base 24* BTDC??
this is very interesting
the base timing on my motor is 24* BTDC ... general timing of 38* BTDC across before boost hits... and at 5,500 RPM and 17psi the timing drops down to around 21* BTDC...
soo would hitting 5* BTDC be way way too retarded?? or should I drop the timing to ohhh around the base 24* BTDC??
this is very interesting
www.putfile.com/proxlamus
1978 Datsun 280Z turbo, running MegaSquirt n Spark Extra 021u =) controlled via PalmTune and PalmEdit thanks to Renns who kicks ass
1978 Datsun 280Z turbo, running MegaSquirt n Spark Extra 021u =) controlled via PalmTune and PalmEdit thanks to Renns who kicks ass
PrOxLaMuS© wrote:Ok so for an example..
the base timing on my motor is 24* BTDC ... general timing of 38* BTDC across before boost hits... and at 5,500 RPM and 17psi the timing drops down to around 21* BTDC...
soo would hitting 5* BTDC be way way too retarded?? or should I drop the timing to ohhh around the base 24* BTDC??
this is very interesting
I am not sure - I will let James answer, but i can tell you that 21 degrees @ 17 psi is a lot of timing even on a low compression motor
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I'm running on the general rule of thumb.. 1 degree of boost retard for every pound of boost... so I am pulling timing back 17 degrees at 17psi..
my motor is a 8.3:1 and with some wear .. im sure its around 8.1:1 now..
Anyway very very interesting thread!
my motor is a 8.3:1 and with some wear .. im sure its around 8.1:1 now..
Anyway very very interesting thread!
www.putfile.com/proxlamus
1978 Datsun 280Z turbo, running MegaSquirt n Spark Extra 021u =) controlled via PalmTune and PalmEdit thanks to Renns who kicks ass
1978 Datsun 280Z turbo, running MegaSquirt n Spark Extra 021u =) controlled via PalmTune and PalmEdit thanks to Renns who kicks ass
Lance has a useful set of guidelines for initial ignition map settings here http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=9941 that may be helpful in sorting your sparks. Be careful using spark retard rev limiting on a turbo as extended periods of hefty retard can overheat the turbine. The shimmering orange glow is pretty, though...
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hmm interesting.. I always assumed that as the rings wore down.. the BLOW -BY would increase over time.. so the pistons can no longer hold as much compression.. therefore reducing the overall compression ratio
i guess a logical assumption but I never really looked into what it does..
i guess a logical assumption but I never really looked into what it does..
www.putfile.com/proxlamus
1978 Datsun 280Z turbo, running MegaSquirt n Spark Extra 021u =) controlled via PalmTune and PalmEdit thanks to Renns who kicks ass
1978 Datsun 280Z turbo, running MegaSquirt n Spark Extra 021u =) controlled via PalmTune and PalmEdit thanks to Renns who kicks ass
Well there is a difference between your static compression ratio changing and compression loss. I would really like to think your motor is strong enough that it does not have significant air blow by. Throwing oil into the chamber because of worn oil rings is common, but when motors start losing compression it's generally not a good sign.PrOxLaMuS© wrote:hmm interesting.. I always assumed that as the rings wore down.. the BLOW -BY would increase over time.. so the pistons can no longer hold as much compression.. therefore reducing the overall compression ratio
i guess a logical assumption but I never really looked into what it does..
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I would expect the compression to go down too. My engine is nice and clean inside but the pistons slop around in the bores and it breathes heavily. All pots are down on compression.
James
James
I can repair or upgrade Megasquirts in UK. http://www.jamesmurrayengineering.co.uk
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There is some crossover confusion here. The static (or calculated) compression ratio (8.3:1) can be increased by carbon buildup over time, while the dynamic compression can suffer from wear (e.g. - rings) simultaneously.Jon k wrote:Typically when an engine has wear the compression goes up, not down. as carbon in the cylinder chamber populates space otherwise free. So, I am not too sure how the CR would go down.PrOxLaMuS© wrote: my motor is a 8.3:1 and with some wear .. im sure its around 8.1:1 now..