"Proof read" my board mods please!

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peter.blais
MS/Extra Newbie
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Jun 09, 2006 6:47 pm
Location: salt lake city, UT
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"Proof read" my board mods please!

Post by peter.blais »

Hi guys, I just bought this ECU from Jerry at DIYautotune! Great guy!

Anyways, I needed to mod the board first off so it'd work with my hall sensor.

To do this I:

Cut out caps C12 and C30... , and jumpered D1..



Then I needed to setup the onboard coil driver, I followed the instructions posted on the MS&S-E website to do this...

"Top" of r26 >> 330ohm >> IGBTIN

R57 not fitted

Jump R43

jumped IGBTOUT to IGN


Anyways, I know this is standard stuff, but I took some pictures of the mods I did so you guys can take a gander before I power this up... I'm on a really tight schedual to get this car running so I don't have much window for "oh oh that smells like burnt electrical!"


Thanks in advance guys for a quick once over!

Pete
sportage4x4
Experienced MS/Extra'er
Posts: 341
Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 6:29 pm
Location: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada

Post by sportage4x4 »

you need to do the rest of the mods to get your hall sensor to work. jumper opto-in to +5v, and tachselect to XG1.
1990 Mazda Miata: GM Gen3 V8 swap, 4.8L, custom cam, 2x GT2860R turbos, MS3 + MS3X.
2003 Kia Rio wagon: Mazda B6T/G25MR swap, Miata CAS, IHI RHF5 @ 2bar, LSx truck coils, P&H board, boost control.
peter.blais
MS/Extra Newbie
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Jun 09, 2006 6:47 pm
Location: salt lake city, UT
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Post by peter.blais »

OK, if i do that stuff what pin do i need to get my +5v from, right now- I read somewhere- lol- i'm just stealing it off the TPS vref pin...

I'm assuming thats what those mods do? Otherwise I guess I can just do those and not change anything external wiring wise.

8)
peter.blais
MS/Extra Newbie
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Jun 09, 2006 6:47 pm
Location: salt lake city, UT
Contact:

Post by peter.blais »

Ok i'm gonna confess i'm a little confused what to do with the hall part of things... It seems like there are a few different ways to do this that all work..

On the DIYautotune page, he tells you just to cut out the caps, and jumper the D1... He also mentions a 1k pullup resistor if your signal is weak.

However, he does not mention anything about cutting the XG1-XG2 jumper, or any other stuff like that...

I don't want to end up with half of both ways of doing it because that probably won't work.

can anybody shed some light on this?
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