EDIS module

1fastredsc · Post by **1fastredsc** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 7:36 am

Is it possible to use MSNS-E to run an EDIS module setup with EDIS, or is it only driven straight from the MS?

motown menace · Post by **motown menace** » Wed Jul 05, 2006 8:18 pm

You need both the EDIS module and a MS to run EDIS. The EDIS module connects to the EDIS VR sensor and coil pack. There are two wires that run from the EDIS module to your MS. These two wires are the PIP and SAW.

Basically one of them sends a signal to your MS letting it know what's going on, the other wire sends a signal back to the EDIS module to tell it how to advance/retard the timing.

1fastredsc · Post by **1fastredsc** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 5:38 am

Ok so that means that MSNS-E can control the module then? The reason i ask is because on that MSNS-E website they only talk about how to fire the coils directly from the MS and not how to drive the module.

PSIG · Post by **PSIG** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 6:13 am

1fastredsc wrote:Ok so that means that MSNS-E can control the module then? The reason i ask is because on that MSNS-E website they only talk about how to fire the coils directly from the MS and not how to drive the module.

Just follow the links on the site under Ignition and Ford EDIS.
http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/setup-edis.html
http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra ... dware.html

1fastredsc · Post by **1fastredsc** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 6:38 am

Thanks that was exactly what i was looking for. Appearantly i'm a little dense because i couldn't find it on my own

1fastredsc · Post by **1fastredsc** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 6:53 am

Ok, quick question again. Why is it recommened for first installs to use the LED for SAW output instead of FIDLE? Also, which ever wire that gets used for SAW output, should i insulate it and the PIP input with a ground shield? The system i'm replacing is a bosch K-jetronic CIS system that has that idle air bypass valve, and it doesn't require input to work. It's the one with the heat element in it, it contracts and expands depending on temperature which opens and closes the valve.

petteriu · Post by **petteriu** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 7:13 am

So you can still use fidle for fidle

Petteri

Post by **jsmcortina** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 7:21 am

1fastredsc wrote:Ok, quick question again. Why is it recommened for first installs to use the LED for SAW output instead of FIDLE?

So you can use FIDLE to do fast idle which is useful for most people, it doesn't matter for you as your idle valve looks after itself. However, why would you _not_ want to use LED17/D14 ?

Also, which ever wire that gets used for SAW output, should i insulate it and the PIP input with a ground shield?

It will work without, but screening the wires is a good idea. Connect the screen at one end only.

James

1fastredsc · Post by **1fastredsc** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 7:38 am

jsmcortina wrote: So you can use FIDLE to do fast idle which is useful for most people, it doesn't matter for you as your idle valve looks after itself. However, why would you _not_ want to use LED17/D14 ?
James

Thought it would make the setup easier since i'm assuming that there's no extra modification required to the ouput side of things.
BTW, i noticed that if you pull up off of the LED you can use either IAC1A or IGN for output. What's IGN?

Post by **jsmcortina** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 8:06 am

Either way requires a small board modification. Go with LED17. It is the "standard" way now.

IGN and IAC1A are pins on the DB37 connector.

James

1fastredsc · Post by **1fastredsc** » Thu Jul 06, 2006 8:45 am

Ok thanks, will do.