Someone help me with the wheel stim thing please?

ion332 · Post by **ion332** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 5:18 pm

Ok, bear with me here please.

I kept testing it on the bench, running the CAS with a drill, and the one LED kept getting stuck on, the one that drives spark A.

Well, today, I read something in here about there being an issue with the wheel stim.

So, at wits end and/or thinking my MS had just died and/or was hopelessly corrupted, I turned the wheel stim ON and put the number of states to 3 (for 3 coilpacks).

I spun the wheel and lo and behold, it cycled through the LEDs perfectly?!? What did I do? According to this, it says the wheel stim should be OFF?!?

Someone help me out here, I know it *says* that it is supposed to be OFF, but it seems that its supposed to actually be ON?!

Also, too, when I turn the wheel stim OFF, the rpm in Megatune is erratic. When I turn wheel stim ON, its dead on.

Post by **muythaibxr** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 6:19 pm

we need to know what your configuration is. Most likely if it doesn't work when running as a normal wheel, then you have the configuration wrong.

ion332 · Post by **ion332** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 5:14 am

6-1 wheel

code 29s (switched to 29s due to it also not working correctly in 29q2)

msq attached.

everytime I try it with the stim off, it hangs up spark A. I am using a 6-1 cam wheel with a VR sensor and an lm1815 which makes for a very nice clean set of pulses to the main cpu. I switched to the 6-1 cam wheel after thinking my dual wheel decoder might have been an issue. I am using the 6-1 as a reality check because I know there are plenty of people who have used them successfully with the wasted spark. But, most of them used an earlier version of code. I am getting the same behavior.

I just don't get it, my only hope right now might be to drop back to 25s or something.

I started to notice some issues with my ignitor after I upgraded to 29q2, and the ignitor was always running smoking hot regardless of how low I set the dwell. I checked the coil resistance and it was in spec.

Post by **jsmcortina** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 6:05 am

With a 6-1 wheel on the cam you have to run coil on plug, so you need six triggers and six coils not three.

You wheel decoder settings are wrong in any case. Even if this was a 6-1 crank wheel you have triggers 1,2,3 meaning that all three sparks are in the first half a revolution and nothing sparks in the second half. That is why the LED is sticking on as it assumes a normal engine with even firing.

James

shaodome · Post by **shaodome** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 6:33 am

I'm almost positive you are meaning CRANK trigger and not CAM becuase you are using the VR decoder. The CAM is a hall effect and thus wouldn't be too happy with an LM1815 IC in the mix.

When I do my bench testing using a stim, I set the wheel decoder to 6-1, A=1 B=3 C=5 and the wheel for stim to 3 outputs. All three leds will blink as expected.

ion332 · Post by **ion332** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 8:20 am

YES!

Thanks jordan. For test purposes, I cut one of the teeth off of the 6t cam wheel and rigged up the VR to read the outer teeth of the cam wheel. When its on the car, it will be hooked up to the crank pulley set to 6-1. ;)

And, yes, james, I did switch over to jordans setup after the first episode just for test purposes. Thanks for the settings!

But, it looks like it was my settings, thats the good news! ;)

BTW, I found out what was going on earlier: my hall effect on my disty was dying and becoming intermittent, so with that in mind I am switching to the VR.