another 4300 rpm thread

[ion332]

I got the same thing going on right now.. I have NO idea what is wrong at this point.

My VR signal looks clean all the way across the rpm range. I also have 3 coilpacks. Car runs GREAT until then though. Nice snappy throttle.

My car won't go past around 4100rpms and it start breaking up and popping and just acting terrible.

I *DO* know if you are using a VR signal, you might have to tweak the resistance values somewhat on your signal conditioner. I have been spoiled by using a hall effect until now so its like starting from scratch.

[ion332]

What would be a safe amount of timing to run on a 4v per cyl 6 cyl motor - I see a max of about 9.5 psi of boost - the CR is 10.0:1.

I haven't even tried to setup accel enrich... so maybe that's the issue?

No, I severely doubt it. If I creep up to 4300rpms, my car starts popping and acting very badly. There is something else going on here.

I am starting to wonder if its the wheel decoder settings..

I am using this:

DIS6 replacement
36-1 wheel aligned the same as EDIS6
trigger angle=70
Timebased cranking and 10deg cranking angle.
trig A=35
trig B=11
trig C=23
Use three VB921 to drive the coils and set LED17,LED18,LED19 as spark outputs.
Spark output "inverted"
Dwell control with 5ms cranking, 4ms running and a 0.1ms min discharge.

Exactly how it is in here. I locked timing to 10btdc, looked at it with a timing light and its ROCK SOLID until 4300rpms, then it goes crazy.

Just for kicks, I am going to try A=11 B=23 C=35. Maybe I have no idea of what I am doing, but I am losing my mind right now anyway so...

I have tried changing the lm1815 circuit, but its working rock solid also, I really don't have a clue just yet. Something that MS doesn't like is going on here and I can't nail it down yet.

[bcrx7]

Make sure you have the VR+ and VR- signals connected the right way. Almost sounds like they might be reversed.

[ion332]

Make sure you have the VR+ and VR- signals connected the right way. Almost sounds like they might be reversed.

yeah, I am going to try that yet again and see what happens.

[ion332]

you do have caps from the coil 12V supply to ground, don't you? There was a post about that recently. I tried to run wasted spark and would get WOT misses as well. It was better with 025 style wheel decoder instead of 024 (36-1 wheel). I did not add the caps, but that would be a hlep. I am sure you are already running resistor plugs.

$0.02

KeithG


Posted by email.

Yes, I used the stock one.. I dunno though, maybe I should put a big electrolytic on the coilpack. Can't have too much capacitance on the coilpacks.

Swapping the VR leads caused the car to not get a tach signal, so I guess thats not it.

I will probably have to somehow mess with the gap on the VR sensor is the only other thing left.

[ion332]

Ion...so far in every KL powered car, the VR wires i've seen are solid green and blue coming out of the same black shield. Just to confirm, your using the green wire as the tach input and the blue to ground, correct?

Yes, actually.. It can't be turned around or I get no tach signal at all, so that makes it easy to figure out.

I have the gn wire to the tach, and theblue wire to ground. If I switch them around, I get no tach signal at all.

[shaodome]

Hrm...in wonder if this has something to do with the COP ignitors you have hooked up...

[ion332]

Hrm...in wonder if this has something to do with the COP ignitors you have hooked up...

Nope, pulled all that stuff out. Still running VB921s with my EDIS coilpack. Since no one had ever had COPs running before, I eliminated them first. I have a really nifty connector to the harness so I can switch back very quickly. ;)

Besides that, my COPs are dummies.. They don't have an integrated ignitor or anything, you still need an external ignitor to drive them, they are merely coils.


Ummm, man, I am feeling stupid now....

Uh c11, thats supposed to be removed isn't it?

[Jon k]

Hrm...in wonder if this has something to do with the COP ignitors you have hooked up...

Nope, pulled all that stuff out. Still running VB921s with my EDIS coilpack. Since no one had ever had COPs running before, I eliminated them first. I have a really nifty connector to the harness so I can switch back very quickly. ;)

Besides that, my COPs are dummies.. They don't have an integrated ignitor or anything, you still need an external ignitor to drive them, they are merely coils.


Ummm, man, I am feeling stupid now....

Uh c11, thats supposed to be removed isn't it?

No offense man but this is my thread and you're sort of hijacking it to the point where we're all getting confused.

[ion332]

No offense man but this is my thread and you're sort of hijacking it to the point where we're all getting confused.

Or hijacking it to the point that your car is now work properly. ;)

It goes that way sometimes, in the confusion you pick something out that seems good and you try it and it works.

[Jon k]

No offense man but this is my thread and you're sort of hijacking it to the point where we're all getting confused.

Or hijacking it to the point that your car is now work properly. ;)

It goes that way sometimes, in the confusion you pick something out that seems good and you try it and it works.

I think my issue is a a REALLLLLLLY rich tune causing hesitation/misfire on boost. I also am running stock temp plugs. I have a set of cooler plugs in the mail.

[ion332]

Well, I got mine working now too, only thing is that I had to switch the 36-1 wheel out with a 6-1 wheel.

Once the 6-1 wheel was on there, it worked ok in the upper rpms, but I lost some throttle response. Im sorta bummed on that, but, hey, the car works and I can swap over to the 36-1 wheel at a later time.