In MSnS that is true. With OEM, ND use the 2 G sensors to know where in the cycle it is for a for a quicker start.... I suppose it may save 1 revolution!!muythaibxr wrote:You only need 1 G sensor to do sequential...
toyota 24 tooth dual wheel CAS wheel, but no RPM signal help
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lmr052
- Experienced MS/Extra'er
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Successful MS Replacement for OEM Toyota ECU - all stock sensors and 2nd Ignition Input.
Just an update, i modified the CAS to 12-1 and it worked. I tidied up my car and went on to tuning.
After tuning idle, i took it out for a drive for further tuning using Autotune. Blacktop 20v is surprisingly powerful compared to the original bluetop 16v 4age.
Anyway, I almost died. While tuning around 6.1k rpm, the engine threw a rod, locked the drive train, and sent my car (at a very high speed) spiralling down Auckland's motorway. The feeling was unreal, good thing i had a little track time experience and reacted well and manage to catch the slide and parked on the shoulder.
for those of you that watched initial D when Takumi blew his motor.. this was like that.. but heaps faster and more spinning.
Anyway, managed to arrange towing to get the car home and took some photos.
The hole
So for those who are reading this and thinking of using a Blacktop 20v 4age engine, please be warned and change your conrods to the Silvertop 20v variant to avoid near death experience.
After tuning idle, i took it out for a drive for further tuning using Autotune. Blacktop 20v is surprisingly powerful compared to the original bluetop 16v 4age.
Anyway, I almost died. While tuning around 6.1k rpm, the engine threw a rod, locked the drive train, and sent my car (at a very high speed) spiralling down Auckland's motorway. The feeling was unreal, good thing i had a little track time experience and reacted well and manage to catch the slide and parked on the shoulder.
for those of you that watched initial D when Takumi blew his motor.. this was like that.. but heaps faster and more spinning.
Anyway, managed to arrange towing to get the car home and took some photos.
The hole
So for those who are reading this and thinking of using a Blacktop 20v 4age engine, please be warned and change your conrods to the Silvertop 20v variant to avoid near death experience.
Last edited by Eugene on Fri Aug 03, 2007 4:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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muythaibxr
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Were you datalogging? It'd be interesting to see what was going on when the engine threw the rod.
I've never heard of a blacktop just randomly throwing a rod either. While the blacktop rods are definitely not as beefy as the silvertop rods, I've heard of people regularly revving the blacktop to 9k rpms on stock internals without problems. The blacktop is supposed to be balanced better than the silvertop, with a higher redline.
I'd really like to see the datalog and msq if you have them.
Also, glad you're not hurt. That must have been scary!
Ken
I've never heard of a blacktop just randomly throwing a rod either. While the blacktop rods are definitely not as beefy as the silvertop rods, I've heard of people regularly revving the blacktop to 9k rpms on stock internals without problems. The blacktop is supposed to be balanced better than the silvertop, with a higher redline.
I'd really like to see the datalog and msq if you have them.
Also, glad you're not hurt. That must have been scary!
Ken
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Matt Cramer
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Wow. Glad to hear you're all right.
With a white hachi-roku with ITBs throwing a rod like that, it looks so close it's almost eerie! (Except Takumi didn't get the ITBs until after the blown motor episode.)Eugene wrote:for those of you that watched initial D when Takumi blew his motor.. this was like that.. but heaps faster and more spinning.
Matt Cramer -1966 Dodge Dart slant six running on MS3X
Actually, looking at the datalogs, i didnt even go above 6krpm
Not too sure at what stage the engine broke, it was towards the end of the datalogs anyway.
let me know if there's anything obviously wrong with my settings as i intend to get another bottom end with stronger rods using the same msq as a base map for further tuning.
Well, i'd been warned by my drifter friends about blacktop 4age 20v, and there are heaps of stories here in NZ where people break rods on the Blacktop 20vs. The reason was the Blacktop oil galleries in the block is not as good as the earlier variant and could starve the engine of oil. This is one of the reasons why there are so many blacktop 20vs for sale in nz that has big end problems. Another theory is if you sit on 8k rpm often, it will break, proven by my rally, and circuit friends too. i was surprised that mine broke at 6.1krpm though. Well, engine was second hand so, i guess its sort of expected. i was thinking i could tune it using the standard form and rebuild it later, so that i could bed the rings in properly with a decent map. Well, i guess that's luck.
Good thing NZ has cheap 4ages though
Cheers
Not too sure at what stage the engine broke, it was towards the end of the datalogs anyway.
let me know if there's anything obviously wrong with my settings as i intend to get another bottom end with stronger rods using the same msq as a base map for further tuning.
Well, i'd been warned by my drifter friends about blacktop 4age 20v, and there are heaps of stories here in NZ where people break rods on the Blacktop 20vs. The reason was the Blacktop oil galleries in the block is not as good as the earlier variant and could starve the engine of oil. This is one of the reasons why there are so many blacktop 20vs for sale in nz that has big end problems. Another theory is if you sit on 8k rpm often, it will break, proven by my rally, and circuit friends too. i was surprised that mine broke at 6.1krpm though. Well, engine was second hand so, i guess its sort of expected. i was thinking i could tune it using the standard form and rebuild it later, so that i could bed the rings in properly with a decent map. Well, i guess that's luck.
Good thing NZ has cheap 4ages though
Cheers
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suberimakuri
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muythaibxr
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Re:
I have been looking around trying to find your thread on the COP set up you did but couldn't find anything. Any links that you can refer me to please and thank youmuythaibxr wrote:I took a look at the log... It didn't look like there were any rpm spikes or other bad things of that nature... AFR was a little all-over the place... but other than that I couldn't see any problems... you were even running pretty conservative ignition timing for that engine.
Ken
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suberimakuri
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Re: toyota 24 tooth dual wheel CAS wheel, but no RPM signal
Try s-86.com for an Australian supplier of COP mounting plates. I have one on my black top. Awesome