Switching ignition systems.Wasted Spark to Wasted COP.

[lundgren420]

So here I am wanting to clean up my engine bay and reduce visible wiring. I have this hefty Ford EDIS 4 Coil driven directly from MS1 V3.0 High Rez. It is set in wasted spark for a 4cylinder car. The coil is driven from two BIP373 Ignition drivers lead through a DB15 plug as described in the manual.

I have just picked up a set of (4) CBR 600 COPs with harness as the dimensions fit perfectly and they are a two wire COP.

My question is: What is the easiest way to run these coils with my current hardware? Can they be run in parallel? If I need to I will add igniters but would rather leave the MS where it is an not add any other coil drives.

Can this be done?

Thanks.

Justin

[dontz125]

A fellow on the FZROnline forum used similar COPs to mod his bike to wasted COP (1-4 & 2-3 in parallel), using the stock TCI box (with 20-yo+ ignition drivers inside), and hasn't had a problem. If those old Darlingtons can handle it, a pair of BIPs probably wouldn't even notice!

I would take an ohmmeter to those COPs, though, and confirm they really are inductive coils (1.5-2.5 ohms) and not CDI (<1 ohm). Some years of the CBRs used TCI, some used CDI, and I can't remember which ,,,

[lundgren420]

I put them in and wired in parallel (1&4-2&3), now I need a little help with EMI.

Since my coil high voltage leads run really close to the CAS I seem to be getting EMI triggered resets. I am going to test this tonight with a trigger log.

I was instructed to place a capacitor on the high voltage lead, and to shield the wires from the rest of the sensory components.

What would be the best method for doing this? I was thinking of using aluminum tape and spiral wrapping the wires then attaching a ground a to the loom and to the back side of the block.

Any thoughts?

[seishuku]

Don't put one on the HT leads, you just need a condenser cap on the +12v going to the coils (as close to the coils as possible) to ground.

I had the same issue until I remembered to put the condenser back in.

[lundgren420]

Thanks. Could you please be more specific and provide me some training for this solution?

[lundgren420]

Success!!!!! I added two more ignition drivers and ran them as COP wasted spark and it fired up on my old tune. Thanks to everyone who helped and lead me to the answer.

http://youtu.be/DttJCqmiA74

[lundgren420]

Problem.

When I went to finish the internal wiring and create a new ignition loom I could not get the engine to turn back on.

I soldered the BIP's with 2" pigtails remote mounted to a piece of high temp plastic that I had cut to 1.5"x 2". Then every time I try to start the car I got really bad resets. Nearly every time it tried to fire a coil the ecu would reset. If I hold the gas pedal to the floor it would crank and crank but not start.

So I went through the process of disconnecting the various accessories of the engine and even the coils and found that it is partially due to the coils. If I disconnect them it would continue to crank without resets. I do have a cap on the + lead near the fender.

Any ideas? I am separating the BIP's tonight and creating my own segregated igniter to place on the firewall hoping that this removes some of the ignition noise from the ecu.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks,

Justin

[Matt Cramer]

Where exactly did you ground the BIP373s?

[lundgren420]

I soldered the grounds together to a single 10ga stranded wire and grounded it to the intake manifold. This is the same common ground for the rest of the MS grounds and sensors.

[dontz125]

I soldered the grounds together to a single 10ga stranded wire and grounded it to the intake manifold. This is the same common ground for the rest of the MS grounds and sensors.

That could be your problem right there - your sensor signals are getting hammered by the heavy junk from the ignition and injectors, and the MS doesn't know which way is up.

Run all your sensor grounds to one of the DB37 ground pins. None of your sensors should be connected to anything other than the MS - one of the fellows described a test for a properly wired sensor group as unplugging the DB37 cable and confirming no continuity from any sensor ground to vehicle ground.

Take a look at this page: Megasquirt grounding

[lundgren420]

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/Ign ... op_MS2.GIF

This is my setup.

I linked the grounds to good earth source. I don't think the MS ground plane can handle these being connected to it.

Thanks.

Justin

[dontz125]

People do run internal ignitors with few problems, so long as the appropriate tie-in points are used. My point however was that the grounds from your SENSORS should be run back to the MS, and not to the block.

[lundgren420]

After separating the MS grounds and removing the ignition drives from the MS I was able to get the car to start right up. I still have a fluctuation in idle but that may be solved in final wiring.

Thanks.

[azaad]

Success!!!!! I added two more ignition drivers and ran them as COP wasted spark and it fired up on my old tune. Thanks to everyone who helped and lead me to the answer.

http://youtu.be/DttJCqmiA74

What are your setting in ms?
Wasted spark or
Wasted spark cop.

I am trying the same thing for 4age 20v and can't seem to start. When I do an output test from the ms on coil A , all 4 of my COPS spark at the same time...is this right...or just 1&4 should spark?