trigger wheel
Moderators: jsmcortina, muythaibxr
trigger wheel
I would like to give up the hall element distributor and to go for a trigger wheel solution, still with single coil and distributor cap. But since I have a five cylinder and no wasted spark I have to have a cam shaft signal aswell?
The stock system has a one window hall sensor in the distributor; can this be combined with a VR-signal from the crank trigger wheel on my ms1?
I tryed to find this in the documentation but I havent found it
Thanks/Lars
The stock system has a one window hall sensor in the distributor; can this be combined with a VR-signal from the crank trigger wheel on my ms1?
I tryed to find this in the documentation but I havent found it
Thanks/Lars
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- Super MS/Extra'er
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Re: trigger wheel
A single window and hall sensor is the same as a single tooth wheel. Check the manual: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_ ... m#twotrigs
Jean
Jean
Re: trigger wheel
I planned to go from SMnS, five window hall sensor distributor ignition to a trigger wheel solution to achieve better accuracy. But when I read this it seems that the crank wheel should be without missing tooth, and that the trigger then should be due to the cam sensor, and if I use a one window hall distributor, will I gain any accuracy at all?
/Lars
/Lars
Re: trigger wheel
When using a dual wheel with no missing teeth on the crank wheel, the cam signal indicates both crank phase and position - the next crank tooth is Tooth #1. So long as the cam signal doesn't overlap or shift relative position with regards to that tooth edge, a crank wheel + single cam tooth will INCREASE your timing accuracy vs a 5-tooth cam.
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Coming soon: OctoMAP Sensor Module
TTR Ignition Systems
Re: trigger wheel
Is missing tooth wheel a possibility together with a second sensor (cam sensor) or is the non missing tooth the only option?
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Re: trigger wheel
Missing tooth with cam is supported, and is quite common. With MS1 you don't have the option of full-sequential injection, but you can still do sequential COP.
Temporarily shut down - back soon!
QuadraMAP Sensor Module -- PWM-to-Stepper Controller -- Dual Coil Driver
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TTR Ignition Systems
QuadraMAP Sensor Module -- PWM-to-Stepper Controller -- Dual Coil Driver
Coming soon: OctoMAP Sensor Module
TTR Ignition Systems
Re: trigger wheel
I will do some changes during this winter, when the car is in garage. Going for a trigger wheel is one of them. I think a missing tooth solution is the best, since the cam sensor doesn't have to be so accurate then. I wil start to look for the info, what hardware changes that has to be done onto the box, to be able to do this, with both a VR-signal and a Hall-signal.
Thanks/Lars
Thanks/Lars
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- Helpful MS/Extra'er
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- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2014 1:52 pm
Re: trigger wheel
Hi there again:)
i was trying to find a solution for fitting in a 36-1 trigger wheel on my engine.
It's a flat 4cyl air cooled boxer engine...
and i'm pretty stucked:(
So i dissasambled an engine, to look up for a place for crankshaft trigger wheel.
It's worse than i was hoping:(
I made some photos...hopefully you will understand something of it:)
The crankshaft pulley is made out of 3 pieces:
- one steel ring, protecting the crankshaft sealing(1mm thick, fixed with pressure, by the 2 other teethed wheels)
- 2 teethed wheels, for the camshaft belts( these have a wall on a side, 2.4mm thick, and inside they have a grinded place for a fixing pin). Both wheels are same...and go on the crankshaft in only one position.
- on the front of the first wheel, the air cooling fan is going to be fixed. It's a crankshaft moved fan, and it's screwed with a big screw on the crankshaft, and it's thightening all the 2 belt wheels, and the protective steel ring. The metal suport of the cooling fan has no locking pin, it can go in any position.
Now i was wondering how the f*ck can i make a trigger wheel?
Replacing the protective steel ring, with a 1mm thick trigger wheel is not posible. In first place that ring has no fixed position, the crankshaft in that zone has no fixing pin.
In the front of the 2 belt wheels...it's tricky, because the fan fixing comes close to the teethed wheel.
I was thinking to grind of the wall of one of the teethed wheel, and make a 2.4mm thick trigger wheel. It will have a grinded place inside, so it will be fixed with the fixing pin of both teethed wheel. Or trying to remove also the protective steel ring...and make the trigger wheel 3.4mm thick.
But will that work? Will i have any problem with the belts that go on the teethed wheels?
Maybe you can give me an advice, an ideea....anything:)
The photo album is here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tp3y7pzdbdip ... oiMFA4DMoa
Now i'm going to check out the camshaft pulley....
i was trying to find a solution for fitting in a 36-1 trigger wheel on my engine.
It's a flat 4cyl air cooled boxer engine...
and i'm pretty stucked:(
So i dissasambled an engine, to look up for a place for crankshaft trigger wheel.
It's worse than i was hoping:(
I made some photos...hopefully you will understand something of it:)
The crankshaft pulley is made out of 3 pieces:
- one steel ring, protecting the crankshaft sealing(1mm thick, fixed with pressure, by the 2 other teethed wheels)
- 2 teethed wheels, for the camshaft belts( these have a wall on a side, 2.4mm thick, and inside they have a grinded place for a fixing pin). Both wheels are same...and go on the crankshaft in only one position.
- on the front of the first wheel, the air cooling fan is going to be fixed. It's a crankshaft moved fan, and it's screwed with a big screw on the crankshaft, and it's thightening all the 2 belt wheels, and the protective steel ring. The metal suport of the cooling fan has no locking pin, it can go in any position.
Now i was wondering how the f*ck can i make a trigger wheel?
Replacing the protective steel ring, with a 1mm thick trigger wheel is not posible. In first place that ring has no fixed position, the crankshaft in that zone has no fixing pin.
In the front of the 2 belt wheels...it's tricky, because the fan fixing comes close to the teethed wheel.
I was thinking to grind of the wall of one of the teethed wheel, and make a 2.4mm thick trigger wheel. It will have a grinded place inside, so it will be fixed with the fixing pin of both teethed wheel. Or trying to remove also the protective steel ring...and make the trigger wheel 3.4mm thick.
But will that work? Will i have any problem with the belts that go on the teethed wheels?
Maybe you can give me an advice, an ideea....anything:)
The photo album is here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tp3y7pzdbdip ... oiMFA4DMoa
Now i'm going to check out the camshaft pulley....
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- Super MS/Extra'er
- Posts: 17507
- Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:08 pm
Re: trigger wheel
I'm thinking your best bet is to stuff a trigger arrangement in the distributor.
Matt Cramer -1966 Dodge Dart slant six running on MS3X