Checking over the used v3.0 pcb i bought, check my homework?

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Checking over the used v3.0 pcb i bought, check my homework?

Postby turbotankshane » Mon Oct 23, 2017 8:01 pm

I bought a used ms1 v3.0, and its getting installed in my 91 ford ranger with a 88 thunderbird turbo coupe engine, using the stock tfi ignition. The previous owner had been setting it up for an ms2 card, but I opted for a de-molested pcb with an ms1 cpu. I have used a microsquirt before, but I've never assembled a board. So everything looks good as I'm going through the assembly guide, but here are the holes in the pcb that aren't populated:

C1
R1
R23
Y1
C25
R22
R21
C21
C20
C24

These are all for the clock circuit, which the previous owner wasn't going to need with his ms2 card. I believe I'm going to need to install these components.

D2

This is part of the hall/optical input circuit, and is not needed for most applications. I'm assuming since I'm using the tfi ignition I don't need this.

D1
C11
C30

These are for triggering off the negative side of the coil, which won't be necessary in my application.

Q4
Q20
R39

I've seen some mixed do/don't installs on these in the assembly guide, but they are all part of the idle air control circuit, which I am not using at all whatsoever. I don't believe I need to install these.

R57

This is the last one that wasn't populated, and the only thing I'm finding in the assembly guide is don't install it if you are using the high current ignition driver.
Actually, after going through the mod list for the tfi ignition, I think I need the circuit installed and a little extra.

So far so good?
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Re: Checking over the used v3.0 pcb i bought, check my homew

Postby Matt Cramer » Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:06 am

R57 is only used with a particular high current ignition driver that was never actually sold with the V3.0 board. Bowling & Grippo had considered several parts for Q16, some of which required a pull-down on the input.
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Re: Checking over the used v3.0 pcb i bought, check my homew

Postby turbotankshane » Mon Oct 30, 2017 6:20 am

So I ordered all the parts I needed from diyautotune, except for two capacitors I couldn't get from their service parts section. I got those locally. One was a tantalum capacitor in a spot where the assembly instructions call for a ceramic disc capacitor, but the guy at radioshack told me it shouldn't make a difference.

Anyway, I got the clock circuit installed and all the mods necessary for letting the tfi module control the coil, and tried to power it up and verify communication with tunerstudio. I know my USB to serial adapter cable is good, because it works just fine with the same laptop and the microsquirt in another vehicle of mine. I manually changed the baud rate to 9600 for that com port but cannot ever detect a connection. I tried to load the ms1 extra firmware but I get an error where it says it expected "" back but only got ".

This is all with the MS not installed in a vehicle, just powered by a 12v power supply, and the 12v wire and 5 ground wires hooked up from my pigtail harness for MS.

Something I'm doing wrong? Or if it sounds like it should be powering on and connecting, any pointers on testing, or what the sp232 chip in U6 should have for voltages on different pins with the unit powered on?
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Re: Checking over the used v3.0 pcb i bought, check my homew

Postby DaveEFI » Mon Oct 30, 2017 7:21 am

Check the manual for details on how to check the serial port circuit.
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Re: Checking over the used v3.0 pcb i bought, check my homew

Postby turbotankshane » Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:08 am

Performed serial link testing as outlined in the megamanual, characters appear on the screen with pins 12 and 13 of the main cpu socket jumpered, board powered up and connected to hyperterminal with my tuning cable and laptop. Comms are good.
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Re: Checking over the used v3.0 pcb i bought, check my homew

Postby kjones6039 » Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:21 am

turbotankshane wrote:as outlined in the megamanual

NO, NO, NO!,.................... Use the Extra manual, inked at the top of this page!

Ken
1979 Corvette - 383 CID SBC w/ Holley Pro-Jection 900 CFM TBI, 4-85 lb lo-z injectors & Walbro 255 pump
MS2 v3 w/extra 3.4.2 Release
36-1, Delphi LS2/7 coils in wasted spark, driven by v2.0 logic board from JBPerformance
Spartan Lambda Sensor from 14point7
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Re: Checking over the used v3.0 pcb i bought, check my homew

Postby DaveEFI » Mon Oct 30, 2017 10:06 am

turbotankshane wrote:Performed serial link testing as outlined in the megamanual, characters appear on the screen with pins 12 and 13 of the main cpu socket jumpered, board powered up and connected to hyperterminal with my tuning cable and laptop. Comms are good.


Right. I'd double check the boot jumper circuit you've installed, as it is needed for the MS1 chip. Don't suppose the caps you substituted was C7or 8? They are likely a critical value and type.
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Re: Checking over the used v3.0 pcb i bought, check my homew

Postby turbotankshane » Mon Oct 30, 2017 1:54 pm

Got it fixed, and msextra code loaded onto it.

The cap I had put in c25, which is part of the clock circuit, was the correct value but the wrong type. I couldn't get a 22pf ceramic disc capacitor off the site, and they didn't have one locally so I used a tantalum 22pf cap. The radioshack guy had told me it would work, but neglected to mention they have a specific polarity.. it may have worked had I flipped it around, but I just replaced it with as close as I could find, a 20pf ceramic disc cap, and the cpu immediately started working great. Code loaded right away and I was able to connect in TS.
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Re: Checking over the used v3.0 pcb i bought, check my homew

Postby DaveEFI » Tue Oct 31, 2017 2:31 am

I've learned something. I didn't realise tantalum were available in the pF sizes.
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