Almost squirted.......

QuarterHorse · Post by **QuarterHorse** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 3:36 pm

Well I had luck, bad luck. It's all in, and would be done and running, but when I soldered a wire on the adapter board, I went to the wrong spot, and popped the board.

I can't believe I did it, and I'm a little miffed right now. Is this somthing that can be fixed Scott or am I ordering another board from ya?

MegaScott · Post by **MegaScott** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 3:46 pm

What was it you connected to the SPR pin that would cause that?

You can just run asmall wire from the Via hole right there to the SPR pad. Or use a different one, theres four SPR's

QuarterHorse · Post by **QuarterHorse** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 4:15 pm

Yeah that caused it. Would this keep my fuel pump from priming when I hit the key? If it's as simple as running a jumper I'm game and I hope to have it tuned tonight.

MegaScott · Post by **MegaScott** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 5:27 pm

I see what happened, when i told you to jumper the EEC pin 1 to the pad on the DB25 labeled SPARE1 you connected it to the DB37 SPR1, The wrong one. this put 12V directly to ground when you plugged in your Megqasquirt V2.2.

Look here, 12V and a V3.0 on pin 3 (the SPR1 wire) would have just gone to no where.

But you put 12V on pin 3 of the V2.2 Megasquirt, That made your adaptor board a fusable link.

QuarterHorse · Post by **QuarterHorse** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 6:59 pm

I purchased a V3.0 board from Jerry.

1 x MegaSquirt-I Programmable EFI System PCB3.0 - Assembled Unit

MegaScott · Post by **MegaScott** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 7:07 pm

Ok, well that throw's that theory out the window.

Double check your cable from the adaptor to the MegaSquirt and verify everything is all good there. You should have 12v on pin 28 with the key on, and good solid grounds on 1,2 and 7-19 from the adaptor board. You can check the fuel pump and relay by grounding pin 37 of the db37 with the key on.

QuarterHorse · Post by **QuarterHorse** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:13 pm

I'll check tomorrow after work, but I had Jerry build the cable too. I also found out there was no firmwire and a friend of mine who's squirted his Mustang loaded that up for me.

MegaScott · Post by **MegaScott** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 12:50 pm

QuarterHorse wrote:I'll check tomorrow after work, but I had Jerry build the cable too. I also found out there was no firmwire and a friend of mine who's squirted his Mustang loaded that up for me.

Now that I would not have expected with a MS1 MCU.

By default the MS1 MCU should come with B&G v3.00 code in it as programmed by Al Grippo. That is unless you got MS2 which normally just comes programmed with the bootloader code, you can easily program either with Eric's MSDownload utility.

QuarterHorse · Post by **QuarterHorse** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 12:54 pm

I don't have MS2, We looked at it over at a friends house last night and found out via his stimulator that we needed to upload the firmwire. I pulled the MS apart and it says MS V3.0 blah blah blah. I'm really cornfused and am heading out to the garage now.

QuarterHorse · Post by **QuarterHorse** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:01 pm

Again, I know the pump/relay is good because I plugged all the stock stuff back in, and bingo, I have a fuel pump priming.

QuarterHorse · Post by **QuarterHorse** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:24 pm

With key on Pin 23-25 have power, nothing on pin 26. Is this a board issue? Did I miss somthing on the board?

MegaScott · Post by **MegaScott** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:37 pm

QuarterHorse wrote:With key on Pin 23-25 have power, nothing on pin 26. Is this a board issue? Did I miss something on the board?

Sorry, I mean't pin 28. Pin 28 of the db37 should have 12V only when you turn on the ignition switch.

MegaScott · Post by **MegaScott** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:52 pm

QuarterHorse wrote:With key on Pin 23-25 have power, nothing on pin 26. Is this a board issue? Did I miss somthing on the board?

Measure again, sounds like you counted from the wrong end.

QuarterHorse · Post by **QuarterHorse** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:58 pm

So nothing on Pin 28, but, when I check voltage on 20, I can make the fuel pump run by grounding the pin with the test light. Help me think, I'm just not getting this Scott, I'm sorry to be a pain but it's just no clicking.

QuarterHorse · Post by **QuarterHorse** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 3:03 pm

I've also tried to find a schematic of this so I don't have to keep asking, but I'm not seeing one.

MegaScott · Post by **MegaScott** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 3:12 pm

QuarterHorse wrote:So nothing on Pin 28, but, when I check voltage on 20, I can make the fuel pump run by grounding the pin with the test light. Help me think, I'm just not getting this Scott, I'm sorry to be a pain but it's just no clicking.

Sounds like the cable is wired backwards? That would make perfect sense given your readings.????

I thiught i e-mailed you the schematic for your board, ok well anyway.

Here's the pinout of the trans connector j3 -
http://megascott.homeip.net/EEC-IV%20Ad ... nge4od.xls

Here's the schematic of the 1.21 board, be aware of the mods your board has for the ECU feedthrough.

http://megascott.homeip.net/EEC-IV%20Ad ... rV1.21.pdf

QuarterHorse · Post by **QuarterHorse** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 3:29 pm

I found some schematics but I'm either dumb, or they suck, or both. I'll e-mail Jerry and ask if it's at all possible.

MegaScott · Post by **MegaScott** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 3:32 pm

I put the schematics up on my site a few weeks ago. go to the assembly page of the particular board you have,

http://megascott.homeip.net/EEC-IV%20Ad ... ly1.21.htm

or

http://megascott.homeip.net/EEC-IV%20Ad ... ly1.30.htm

scroll down to the link that says

"Download the V1.21 Board Schematic"

"Download the V1.30 Board Schematic"

Sorry I don't have any pics directly on the site..Maybe something to add.

MegaScott · Post by **MegaScott** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 3:49 pm

OK all my fault.

When the J2 Megasquirt connector was changed from a female to a male, to allow the use of the relay board cable, I forgot (like an id!ot) to check the fact that the pins are swapped end to end from male to female of the same series connector.

The fix for this is either to change the board (not likely now) or have everyone switch back to the female, and use a male end on one end of the cable.

For now Dustin will have to re-wire his cable, and I'll make the changes to my web site to suit, also I can get with Jerry at DIYautotune and have a special cable made just for my board, male on one end, female on the other.