Dual VR V2.1

[racingmini_mtl]

I have a new version of the dual VR board which is the V2.1. The web site is not ready yet but the board is available.

The V2.1 board still has the same circuit as the V2.0 but has a new form factor. It is smaller and the pads are placed such that they fit a DIP8 pattern. So you can use a DIP8 socket or solder it directly to a proto area or a perforated board. It still has the two mounting holes so you can still solder wires directly to the board.

It also now comes in two versions: the internal and the external versions. The internal version is for those who want to use it in the ECU case and it doesn't have the on-board voltage regulator and needs to be powered by a 5V source. The external version has an on-board voltage regulator and can therefore be powered by a 12V source from the car. However you still need to put it in some sort of enclosure to protect it from the environment (as it was for the V2.0).

This is what the board looks like:
..............

You can see the top of the board with the MAX9926 circuit and the current limiting resistors are now a bit bigger to withstand more voltage from the sensor (the ones on the V2.0 are sufficient in almost all cases but this is for more margin). The bottom has the optional voltage regulator and the labels indicate the pinout. The third picture shows the size relative to a Canadian quarter (same size as a US quarter).

The external version is the same price as the V2.0 ($45 plus shipping) but the new internal version is cheaper ($35 plus shipping).

For now you can contact me to buy them directly from me.

Jean

[chango de naranjito]

I have a new version of the dual VR board which is the V2.1. The web site is not ready yet but the board is available.

The V2.1 board still has the same circuit as the V2.0 but has a new form factor. It is smaller and the pads are placed such that they fit a DIP8 pattern. So you can use a DIP8 socket or solder it directly to a proto area or a perforated board. It still has the two mounting holes so you can still solder wires directly to the board.

It also now comes in two versions: the internal and the external versions. The internal version is for those who want to use it in the ECU case and it doesn't have the on-board voltage regulator and needs to be powered by a 5V source. The external version has an on-board voltage regulator and can therefore be powered by a 12V source from the car. However you still need to put it in some sort of enclosure to protect it from the environment (as it was for the V2.0).

This is what the board looks like:
..............

You can see the top of the board with the MAX9926 circuit and the current limiting resistors are now a bit bigger to withstand more voltage from the sensor (the ones on the V2.0 are sufficient in almost all cases but this is for more margin). The bottom has the optional voltage regulator and the labels indicate the pinout. The third picture shows the size relative to a Canadian quarter (same size as a US quarter).

The external version is the same price as the V2.0 ($45 plus shipping) but the new internal version is cheaper ($35 plus shipping).

For now you can contact me to buy them directly from me.

Jean

this product is..

[R100RT]

First of a few questions relative to setting up the external conditioner board (c/w power supply) on a vehicle (in my case a motorbike).

-should the board be placed close to your VR sensor(s)? In other words keeping the wiring between sensor(s) and board as short as possible if that side is most prone to noise? If the output lines are no better resistant to noise, then I assume this would not make any difference and I could locate the little board well removed back near my ecu.
-do the outlet wires require shielding? I note that is indicated as "Out 1 - white" and "Out 2 - black" heading towards my MS "V2" plug.
Thanks for advice,
Lorne.

[racingmini_mtl]

I would keep it close to the ECU and if possible, use shielded wiring on both the input and output sides. At the very least, you will want to twist the VR+ and VR- wires so you have what's called a twisted pair wire. If the output wires are kept short and away from other noisy components, you may be able to get away with no shielding.

Jean

[R100RT]

Thanks Jean.
I am engaged in setting up a test cell to prove the addition of a cam sensor and single toothed wheel with my present 36/1 crank wheel and VR sensor (the VR being the main candidate for your handy little enhancement chip) on my quest towards sequential ignition.
Assuming I choose a Hall for the cam circuit (and most likely leaning in that direction and I know there is discussion regarding conditioning a hall signal through the Dual VR V2.1) please humor the following questions:
-Would a single tooth signal from a Hall sensor gain much usefulness or reliability being conditioned through the Dual VR V2.1?
-If the Hall is added to the Dual VR, is the signal wire alone entered @ "VR2+" , and what would be connected to "VR2-" ?
-Being as how I am working with the earlier cased Micro Squirt V2 series of product, is the Hall circuit requiring a resistor addition, if so what/ where does that go? I do not wish to modify the internals on my MS cased units at all if possible.
Cheers,
Lorne.

[racingmini_mtl]

Lorne,

I don't think it would make much difference if you used the board for the Hall sensor or not. And all Hall sensors need a pull up resistor but there are some units that have an internal one so you don't need to add one yourself; you'll have to see if your sensor is of the later variety. If you need to add one, it goes between the signal wire and either 12V or 5V.

If you use the dual VR board, just connect the signal to VR+ and leave VR- floating (not connected to anything). If you need a pull up resistor on your sensor (which is likely), you can put the resistor at either end of the signal wire: either at the sensor or at the dual VR board (or at the Microsquirt connector if you don't use the dual VR board). And a 1K resistor will work fine as a pull up resistor in any of the alternatives described here.

Jean

[BMWR100RT]

Post edited

[R100RT]

My previous post seemed rather inane, and removed.
I located your earlier work with Mike (24C) whereby the wiring chart/ schematic was developed specifically for MicroSquirt cased units when interfaced with the Dual VR Confitioner Board. Perfect
Due to size of components and room available on my project, I am going to pursue utilizing a VR sensor for both the crank and the cam, and test as such.
Therefore, I will use both channels of your board.

Locating the above schematic made my weekend, thanks for that provision.

Lorne.

[juanj]

Hi, I can use this board for 4G63 CAS optical on ms3? at ms2 use opto-oscilator circuit and ms3 use vr contioner with pull-up....

in the ms extra manual said that: (Note, that previous Megasquirt versions may have used the optoisolator input, but for better high frequency response with toothed wheels and to match the input on the MS3X card, it is advised to use the VR circuit.)

thanks, sorry my english its not very good.

[racingmini_mtl]

Yes you could but it is easier to use the MS circuits if possible. First try to use what the manual recommends and then if you can't make it work then you can try the dual VR board.

Jean

[juanj]

Ok, thanks , i'll try it.

[Hsix]

This is what I need for my subaru 3.3 build with MS3X! This should solve syncing issues... How can I place an order? I checked the site with no luck.

-Kirk

[racingmini_mtl]

You can now order from this page: http://jbperf.com/dual_VR/v2_1.html#Buy.

Jean

[tobmag]

Jean.

What is the trigger treshold set to?

Was thinking of using this board in my GPIO/Megashift.


BR//Tobmag

[racingmini_mtl]

Jean.

What is the trigger treshold set to?

Was thinking of using this board in my GPIO/Megashift.


BR//Tobmag

There is no adjustment on the trigger threshold so it is set by the chip itself. It is a zero crossing detection with a sophisticated mechanism for preventing false detection.

Jean

[tobmag]

So you mean there is no lower limit where the signal is ignored?


In the GPIO/megashift application you will pick up fairly low frequnce on the VSS, basically from 0hz but you start using the signal around 150hz and up even though with a fairly high ppv(scoped about 6v in my 4L80E at 150hz) so if the treshold is set very low it means I still can get a lot of noice in the lower end....


BR//Tobmag

[racingmini_mtl]

The chip is already used successfully for VSS applications. It has an adaptive threshold which is based on the amplitude of the signal. However, if the amplitude of the noise is close to the amplitude of the signal then the adaptive threshold won't filter out noise. Also, if the frequency is lower than about 10Hz the time out period for the adaptive mechanism means that noise could trigger the chip.

One way to lower the sensitivity of the chip is to use a shunt resistor: a 1k to 10k resistor between VR+ and VR- can be used for this. And of course, using shielded wires helps.

However, I can't guarantee that it would work in your application since I have not tried it personally nor do I have reports of others doing this (but I get very few reports of working setups so it may well have been done successfully).

Jean

[tobmag]

Jean

However, if the amplitude of the noise is close to the amplitude of the signal then the adaptive threshold won't filter out noise. Also, if the frequency is lower than about 10Hz the time out period for the adaptive mechanism means that noise could trigger the chip.

This is exactly where I have the problem today, I was a bit wrong in my previous post, what is used is from 0hz and up to 4500hz in my application.
The thing now is the amplitude on lower frequenses (below 20hz) since it very close to the treshold , makes a lot of false triggering making the speedo go crazy(that including the gear shifting as well)
I see therefore a risk in that your board want make any difference for me, or?

BR//Tobmag

[racingmini_mtl]

Yes, it is possible that the board would not help you. People do use it for VSS applications but if you have noise at low frequencies it can be a problem. However if the issue is the low amplitude of the signal then the board will help because the trigger threshold is very low and the chip can detect and use very small signals.

Jean

[tobmag]

Jean.

I decided to give it a try, I'll report back later on how it works.

BR//Tobmag