Need Crankshaft position sensor dimensions

[mustangjp]

Hello, working on adapting a crank trigger to an early ford. Looking to add the wheel on the inside of the engine using a current production Ford trigger wheel. Need a sensor that will fit in the space I have to work with. Most are too short. Need something in the range of 3.5" to 4" (85mm to 100mm), tip to mount.

If anybody has size data on oem crank sensors I'd appreciate some help. I'm currently looking at a Standard Motor Products #PC556 and PC865. Both look about right in the picture. I just don't want to keep ordering sensors hoping to find the right one.

I talked with the Standard Motor Products tech rep, but they don't keep data on those part #'s. They don't actually make them, they are sourced from the OE manufacturer and then repacked, so no help there.

Thanks,
JP

[Ollie8974]

What are the original applications for those sensors?
Visit a local Pick A Part and check the dimensions on the car.
Be sure to take wire cutters to cut the plug and as much wire as you can
Which early Ford engine?
Wouldn't it be easier to mount the trigger wheel external, behind the dampener, pulleys.
Check in the Success stories. someone my have already my have done the same thing.

[mustangjp]

Thanks for the suggestions. I already considered those ideas. I'd prefer to have it internally mounted. The external ones I've seen weren't as elegant of a solution as I'd like. Mounting behind the damper was one of my first ideas, but would have involved machining and/or welding on the hub, and I didn't like that idea. This is for a 351C motor.

[mustangjp]

Here's a wooden prototype of what I'm intending.

[Ollie8974]

351C Ford, consider the 36-1 trigger wheel from The Ford EDIS. Mounted behind the crank dampener would be almost invisible behind the belts and water pump hoses.

IMG_0945CROPED.jpg

There are Ford cam sensors to run sequential Fuel injection and Ignition.

FORD CAM SENSOR2.jpg

[mustangjp]

Already have an electronic dizzy to use as a cam position sensor, just need to cut off 7 teeth on the reluctor when the time comes.

For the crank wheel, behind the damper was my first idea, but how do you suggest attaching it. I have a ATI super damper. My thought was to machine a flange that would press on to the damper hub and maybe be welded in a couple of spots or have a keyway. Any other thoughts?

[Raymond_B]

For the crank wheel, behind the damper was my first idea, but how do you suggest attaching it. I have a ATI super damper. My thought was to machine a flange that would press on to the damper hub and maybe be welded in a couple of spots or have a keyway. Any other thoughts?

That's what I was planning on doing as well. Have these guys (http://www.millersmule.com/MillersMuleStore/) make a sensor wheel that is a press fit then bolting it to the balancer. You'll need to have it rebalanced from there.

[kjones6039]

No intention of being argumentative here, but before I went out and spent a lot of money to have a custom wheel manufactured, I would have a look at the many wheels offered by various diy suppliers! Like these from DIYAutune, as an example.

Of course, there are plenty of others out there (although I prefer to buy locally hahaha) that will more than likely, fit your application.

Just my 2 cents.......

Ken

[Raymond_B]

Hi Ken, I will double check, but I do not believe the wheel DIYAutotune sells will fit the balancer for my vehicle. That's why I looked elsewhere.

Edit: Also look at their prices

[kjones6039]

That's what I was planning on doing as well. Have these guys (http://www.millersmule.com/MillersMuleStore/) make a sensor wheel that is a press fit then bolting it to the balancer. You'll need to have it rebalanced from there.

I should have been more clear. My response was more directed toward Raymond_B's post, quoted in pertinent part above, than addressing your need for an internally mounted wheel.

Certainly, a one-off solution may be your only choice! And possibly quite expensive!

My apologies!

Ken

[Raymond_B]

Haha that was me that posted Again check out MMs prices on wheels. 55.00 for a 36-1 wheel, with whatever bore I specify, and yellow zinc chromate or just zinc coated.

The context of my reply to the OP is that a custom wheel is relatively easy, now the aftermarket balancers, yeah they are $$$. But sometimes you need them.

[kjones6039]

Raymond,

I think you're just trying to confuse me 'cause I'm old!!!

Hmmmmm.... confused?...old?....... Kind of redundant, huh?

That price seems very reasonable for a one-off, actually!

Ken

[Ollie8974]

Already have an electronic dizzy to use as a cam position sensor, just need to cut off 7 teeth on the reluctor when the time comes.

For the crank wheel, behind the damper was my first idea, but how do you suggest attaching it. I have a ATI super damper. My thought was to machine a flange that would press on to the damper hub and maybe be welded in a couple of spots or have a keyway. Any other thoughts?

I bolted the trigger wheel to the back side of the damper.

IMG_1028CROPED.jpg

[mustangjp]

Nicely done! Is your crank internally balanced?

[Ollie8974]

Nicely done! Is your crank internally balanced?

Yes, it is a traditional Pontiac 455.
I still think you are going to a lot of additional expense, by not looking at the Ford EDIS trigger wheel.

[mustangjp]

There's no expense, just some time. I do all my own machining. Also I still don't see an easier way of attaching the wheel. My balancer is quite a bit different then yours and I don't have the option to drill some holes in the inertia ring and attach there.

[Raymond_B]

There's no expense, just some time. I do all my own machining. Also I still don't see an easier way of attaching the wheel. My balancer is quite a bit different then yours and I don't have the option to drill some holes in the inertia ring and attach there.

On the ATI balancer the hub can be drilled for the attaching bolts or like you said you could tack the wheel to it. But again I am pretty sure the whole assembly will need to be balanced.

[mustangjp]

I was thinking that as long as the installation was symmetrical and not attached to the inertia ring that it wouldn't affect the balance. I'm reasoning that being attached to the hub is essentially no different then being on the crank.