Please Explain Accel Settings

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AbeFM
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Post by AbeFM »

I'll definitely give EAE another look, I'm sure the jumpyness was causing problems.

I always reboot now, so many settings work different right after setting them verses after a reboot, I default to that unless I've got proof it worked without it.

The idea behind setting one to 0 and using the slider is to have a single variable scalar.

I set the TPS values to 2 (or three?) times the defaults, then slid the slider to average those numbers with 0. I found I got the best response at 1.75 times the default values. Changing each number each time is very slow (that dialog reacts slow compared to the rest of MT), and having to change 4 numbers each time instead of one is confusing or at least time consuming and only adds a chance to introduce error.
2000 VVT Miata turbo, MS3Pro

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AbeFM
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Post by AbeFM »

Ok, EAE seems to have issues when there's other enrichments on? Starting was rough, and it was terrible the whole time it was cold (lurches, stalling). When it warmed up, it performed pretty well all in all. But I did keep stalling coming into a stop. I guess I could play with it a bunch more, but in the mean time I'm liking having the motor not stall at every stop. :-)

When everything's working, though, the EAE seems pretty nice, works well in a lot of situations. I turned the min RPM down to 1000, maybe I should move it back up?
2000 VVT Miata turbo, MS3Pro

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muythaibxr
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Post by muythaibxr »

My recommendation for EAE is to warm up the engine, then tune it using the main tables at a particular rpm... cruise usually works well. Then use the RPM curves to get it corrected for RPM. After that, let the engine cool, and use the CLT tables to correct for different conditions under warmup.

Finally, I set up lag compensation, and tune off-idle throttle response. I set the "off RPM" to wherever it seems like I don't need lag compensation anymore.

Ken
hassmaschine
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Post by hassmaschine »

ken,

it sounds like EAE is easiest to tune if somebody else is driving the car, and you're tuning it in real-time? I've tried doing it with logs but it just doesn't work very well that way.
muythaibxr
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Post by muythaibxr »

That's certainly possible, although I've tuned it both ways.

I think you mostly just have to know what to look for. For example, say throttle lifts that result in MAP going from 70 to 40 at cruise cause the engine to go rich. In that case you adjust the main sucked from walls curve in that range higher (since telling the computer that more is coming off the walls will cause it to inject less).

Usually once you get it right at cruise, you can use the RPM curves to adjust at the rest of the RPMS, and you'll end up with it just working. In every case I've tuned, when I find something like that and fix it, it makes other areas work better too.

It is probably easier to tune with someone else driving just because you can see the effects real-time. Both times I did the "15 minute tune" were with someone else driving. I could make a change, and see very quickly whether it had the desired effect, resulting in a very quick tune.

After you get all that done, you can go back and tune the CLT-based curves, and if needed, use lag compensation.

Ken
AbeFM
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Post by AbeFM »

I'll have to see how well the logs help here - the issue I have is there seems to be the right settings originally, but then they don't work right through the transition. I.E. I can make it so the throttle is VERY responsive on a stab, for perhaps 200-300 ms, then it bogs for the next 400 till things steady out again (all by feel).

Playing with the decay time seems to help. Also, changing the INI so the MAPdot bar shows to 1000 instead of 200 makes a big difference, all I ever saw before was it hitting full.
2000 VVT Miata turbo, MS3Pro

Contact me if interested in a MS-II 2nd gen NB Miata PnP board.
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