36-1 crank trigger, easy question???

64Vair · Post by **64Vair** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 8:40 pm

I hope this is an easy question, I think I know the answer just looking for confirmation, or to be set straight.
On my Corvair, I want to put a crank trigger. I want to leave the distributor, using it only to point the coil at the correct plug. I am using the 7 pin GM HEI ignition with a Mallory Digital CD box. If I am not mistaken, since the Ford 36-1 wheel set up is a variable reluctor, I should be able to just cut all but 3 teeth off the wheel, mount it to the motor, hook it up to the GM 7 pin module where the pick up coil connects, and the thing should work just fine like I was using the pick up coil in the distributor.
I have read about a decoder for the 36-1 wheel to make it work with a single coil. I just think that this is a much simpler and easier way to do the same thing. The ONLY reason I want the crank trigger is so that I do not have the oil pump putting pulses into the shaft giving me my timing signal. The crank is the best way to go in my opinion, and I think this is the easiest way to do it. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Tom
PS this would be for use with my MS1 with MSnS. It is currently working just fine with the pick up coil in the distributor, just looking to move it to the crank.

PSIG · Post by **PSIG** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 9:57 pm

64Vair, my 2¢ depends on which board you use, v2.2 or v3. If v2.2 then your concept sounds fine, however I would save some effort and time by just tapping holes directly into your balancer circumference (or front or rear edges) for short bolts or pins instead of wheel teeth. Probably easier than adapting and then modifying another component.

If using a v3 board, then I would bypass the 7-pin as an unnecessary component and wiring in favor of direct input to the board and direct coil contol. I understand you already have the module running, so easy might be to leave it.

Finally, in either case (and especially the v2.2) a Hall sensor can be used in-place of the VR for direct input to the v3's VR input or either board's Hall/opto circuit, avoiding yet another set of unnecessary bits.

Okay, so maybe that was 3¢...

David

64Vair · Post by **64Vair** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:17 pm

Thanks for the reply. V3 board, (sorry should have said that!). Since the 7 pin module is there and working already, that seemed more "simple" than running directly into the MS as you suggest. Still, may wind up doing that anyway, (I had thought about it, but less wires to change and run if I keep the 7 pin module).
The drilling holes in the balancer is not the best idea. While I do have the equipment to do so, the balancer ring is mounted on rubber and vibrates, (absorbing harmonics that could damage the crank). Since I am going to a crank trigger to get away from the "bouncing" caused by the oil pump, getting the same caused by crank harmonics would not be the best deal. Plus, by going to the 36-1 wheel, (scamming one from an Escort), I get a serpentine belt pulley that will work out just fine since I am changing my best set up.

Knocking off the teeth on the 36-1 wheel is not a big deal, I will use the bridgeport to rough cut them off, then use a grinder on the lathe to finish the job, (obviously turning the work in the lathe by hand so it does not go all the way around, the remaining 3 teeth would not reamain then!).
So what you are saying is it will work as I hope, just that I may wish to "clean it up" a bit by eliminating the not needed module and letting the MS1 V3.0 take over the job.
Thanks!
Tom

PSIG · Post by **PSIG** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:34 pm

Whew! Yes, that's about it. Sorry - forgot you're probably running a stock iso-balancer

David

64Vair · Post by **64Vair** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:55 pm

No problem! You may get a kick out of this. (talk about missing something easy). When I got my Mallory 6A box, the directions showed putting it into a stock car with GM 7 pin module. Did not give wire details, just showed the plug on the side of the cap and where to connect what wire into the OEM setup. Well, I don't have any of that. So I carefully think of what wire goes where by description of use, (from the Mallory info). I solder all the wires in place, even use OEM weather tight connectors rather than the ones Mallory supplies. I get it all done, and it won't start. "CRAP!" Let me pull it apart and see what I hooked up wrong. Then I look at it and laugh. Seems I forgot to hook up the battery + and - wires! Yep, never too smart to make a silly mistake!
Tom (who has made many more mistakes like that one, just won't own up to them!)