Microsquirt on a 93 94 95 96 Subaru 6/7

[l337h4l]

Oh, well then I'll change come more and upload it again. What is your max RPM or Rev limit?

6500 RPM... for now That I can adjust easily

[bubba2533]

Ok, for some reason you had boost control and over boost functions turned on.

I adjusted your rpm and map values for the fuel, spark, and afr tables.

Try flashing this msq and use it to start tuning.

Edit: Are you using an output to drive your rad fan relay?

[l337h4l]

Ok, for some reason you had boost control and over boost functions turned on.

I adjusted your rpm and map values for the fuel, spark, and afr tables.

Try flashing this msq and use it to start tuning.

Edit: Are you using an output to drive your rad fan relay?

RAD fan is switch controlled on a panel.

[bubba2533]

Well, there is an output port enabled on that MSQ that you should probably disable that just so that it doesn't cause any issues.

[l337h4l]

I see that I can change that

[l337h4l]

See attached cranking sync log
Still starts fine with stock ECU

2012-03-03_13.07.52.csv

Cranking

(276.11 KiB) Downloaded 21 times

[bubba2533]

The signal is not consistent. I have never seen anything like it so I'm not sure what to suggest doing. It seems that you are getting some type of signal from both triggers, but only at the end of a log section.

[l337h4l]

This was a concern of mine because I emailed DIY and if you look at the actual wiring in the documentation the diagrams of the Crank signal in the documentation Pin 32 should be the signal and Pin 33 should be the shield.

The statement I received back was the that the crank signal is AC and does not matter which pin it is connected too but the problem is inside the harness all of the stock (-) signal is connected. I think this is were my problem lies.

VRIN(-) I have connected the Signal (-) of the Crank signal on B7 which ties into B9 of the Cam Signal (-) on the harness.

VRin: This circuit is designed for use with alternating current variable reluctor AC signals that have both positive and negative voltage components. For more info, see the ignition pickup page. This circuit has two sensor connections:

VRIN+ (coax cable center wire) on pin 32, and
VRIN- (coax cable shield) on pin 33.

(Some older diagrams may show these reversed - the text here is correct! It is also possible that some early production MicroSquirt®'s were mis-wired from the factory. Check the coax cable against the Ampseal pins to verify yours are correct: shield to pin 33, center wire to pin 32. If they are backwards, you do not need to swap them, just use the appropriate pins, i.e. the shield for the input (pin 32), the center wire for the ground (pin 33). If you prefer, you can swap the coax pins to be 'correct'. It takes 3 minutes to do. All you have to do is pull off the red clip on the harness connector, this will expose all of the pins. Next, find the two pins for the coax shield (pin 32 if it is backwards) and center conductor (pin 33) and *gently* wiggle them while gently pushing the terminal - it will dislodge and push back. then switch the locations and push back in till it clicks in place. Then reinstall the red clip (line up all of the terminals).)

Should I depin and repin per the drawing here?

[bubba2533]

I would wire it per the diagram.

It is very hard to understand how you have it wired and such without a diagram or at least a pinout. So, if it is not wired just like the diagram shows, then change it to suit and then if you have problems we can further diagnose.

[l337h4l]

My diagram is on the first page with stock ECU pinouts. My wiring was actually pinned backwards I guess as the revised statement listed above.

[bubba2533]

It looks like then B7 and B9 should go to pin 33 on the uS, and B6 should go to pin 32 on the uS.

[l337h4l]

Some problems resolved tonight after looking at the factory drawings. A18 is 12vt switched controlling the main relay giving power to O2 sensor, IACV, EGR, and FICD solenoid on one leg of the main relay and MAS, and 12vt injector power on the other leg.

I can't believe I missed it. I used power directly from the 12vt switch START or RUNNING. Taking the power from A10 to A18 in a jumper.

After switching PINS 32 and 33 on the uS I have. No Sync issues ( RED flashing ) showing in the tuner studio software injectors fire. But no spark. IGN1 out goes to cylinders 1&2 on the igniter and IGN2 to cylinders 3&4.

What am I missing that no spark is occurring.

[bubba2533]

Post a log of cranking.

[l337h4l]

Post a log of cranking.

This looks a lot better than before

cranking.csv

(11.17 KiB) Downloaded 18 times

[bubba2533]

That looks good, but I was thinking of a normal data log.

[l337h4l]

That looks good, but I was thinking of a normal data log.

Out of the garage for the night I'll try to get you a data log cranking but also did even more reading and the uS documentation says there is a lot of noise sensitivity. I may have have to wrap the IGN outputs with aluminum foil to shield them.

Your thoughts. Would this not allow the ignitor to fire?

The coil's primary current can generate a lot of noise inside the MicroSquirt. The whole MicroSquirt® setup is very compact and noise coupling in the wires can be of concern. Running this wire (and the IGNITION OUTPUT #1 where appropriate) in their own shielded "conduit", along with the injector outputs, can substantially reduce noise injection back into the tach circuit. You can buy shielded wire for this, or wrap 2 to 3 layers of aluminum foil (have a look into your kitchen) around the wires and connect the shield to ground.

[bubba2533]

If your using the ignitor then that is not an issue as the ignitor is taking care of the high current signal. The signal from the uS to the ignitor is a low current control signal.

[l337h4l]

If your using the ignitor then that is not an issue as the ignitor is taking care of the high current signal. The signal from the uS to the ignitor is a low current control signal.

your thoughts on this?
We have the Red V1 board
http://www.microsquirt.info/us_logic_level_spark.htm

[bubba2533]

It looks like you have to modify the board or remove the ignitor since you have the older board. That's disappointing, at least it would be for me.

If it was me I would modify the board to keep the high current away from the uS.

I didn't know there would be this many differences between a MS2 and a uS.

[l337h4l]

yes I was thinking the same thing.... Currently searching for .001 uF caps in the engineering dept at work.

Rev2 is only jumpers but hopefully this cures the no spark issue then I can do a complete write up i mean for $350~ dollars you can not beat a stand alone system. It is easier than converting to WRX and OBDII in my opinion.