Innovate LC1 failures

[ArttuH]

For those who are interested
so with no analog output if figured what the hell ...
I cut around the rubber molding, scoped the serial inputs to the AD5312 and found there was a clock and serial data, so I was confident the AD5312 was at fault.
The new AD5312 arrived today, out with the old and in with the new... just tested and everything now works.

Yep, I have repaired a couple of them that way too. Apparently it's always the DAC (AD5312) when analog output gives up. Another quite common failure mode is firmware corruption. Apparently that usually happens when the battery voltage is going up and down rapidly for example when trying to crank engine with weak battery. That can be fixed too but it requires an Atmel AVR programmer and unofficially sourced binary image...

[RuneDK]

Mine has been on the shelf indoor, in the house at a cozy 21degC, recently fitted 6months ago, has been working perfectly 5months, but is now wildly irratic.
My stock toyota that usually reads mid 11s on WOT suddenly bottoms out the gauge, and on light load, afr's show between 10 and 19, where before it was just hovering 13.7-15.3.

[piledriver]

hit up innovate for a warranty replacement with the current (fixed) model, or a really huge discount...
It cant hurt.
there are also many documented work arounds short of reflashing with a chip programmer.

LC1s had issues as is well documented in this and many other threads all over the net.

I'm not sure if I have ever met anyone with an lc1 that had nice things to say about it, but I have been using 14point7.com units from day one.
(largely due to bad LC1 press that has been ongoing since its release)

you can get a better wideband for $35 as you already have a sensor...
http://www.14point7.com/products/slc-free

[ChevelleFan]

I don't think I can vote twice, but I'm 1 for 2 with LC1's. My first one, prob back in 07 or 08? failed fairly quickly. Even after a warranty repair, it was flaky again. My car ended up sitting for several years, but when I got it running again, I bought a new LC1 and it's been fine for 2+ years now. I just bought a third LC1 for a new project, should have it installed in a few weeks. Here's hoping I go 2 for 3.

-Dave

[benckj]

Not sure if this is relevant but the newer guage & sensors seem to last longer and be more reliable. They claim to use a 'digital' sensor now which is compatible with all fuel types.

Jim

[gboezio]

I had it installed on my TRX450ER, couldn't get a proper reading, I fiddled with it for a few days, free air cal, proper grounding, I have found some noise on the power supply with my USB scope, I have soldered a small capacitor to the power supply, I even shorted the leads before, but this is when it bricked.

I have a second one that works flawlessly on a CJ7 Jeep

[FarcryNZ]

I think I have cooked my sensor, as I didn't follow placement instructions and put it in the OEM Narrow Band hole, not 24 inch from the cylinders or whatever it says, so I think it got too hot during my home testing and driving over a few months.
but now after reading all this, perhaps it is the MXT-L that is busted

question I have, and hopefully its a simple one - can I get a replacement sensor from anywhere? wreckers or parts shop? should be generic right?


Thanks.

[Bigcam]

you will need to check if it's a 4.9 or a 4.2 sensor and they have different plugs. Approx $90.00 for the replacement sensor.

[FarcryNZ]

you will need to check if it's a 4.9 or a 4.2 sensor and they have different plugs. Approx $90.00 for the replacement sensor.

yes but, if its a 4.9 for example, can I go to the wreckers and pull a sensor from a car there?
and change the plug or make a harness.


Thanks

[Bigcam]

Check the Innovate website, I think there is a warning about modifying the sensor harness. If you look at the Bosch motorsport website you will find the part number for the sensor and then you can cross reference it, think it's standard fitment for an Audi/VW.

[Greg Amy]

Spend the money on a 14point7 Spartan2.

I killed two 4.9 sensors this year with the LC-2, only 3000 miles of driving. I will not be buying another one.

https://www.raceconover.com/shop/spartan2

[Raymond_B]

you will need to check if it's a 4.9 or a 4.2 sensor and they have different plugs. Approx $90.00 for the replacement sensor.

yes but, if its a 4.9 for example, can I go to the wreckers and pull a sensor from a car there?
and change the plug or make a harness.


Thanks

Besides the pitfalls of modifying the harness you have no idea what shape the sensor is in or how long it will last. Trying to cheap out on a crucial sensor like the A/F will cost way more in the long run than you will save...