Hello newbe here, first post and already asking some help.

Post by **jsmcortina** » Sat Apr 05, 2014 5:19 am

capri v8 driver wrote:i got a feeling that the latest version of tunerstudio is different.

That's nothing to do with TunerStudio, it sounds like maybe you changed firmware version?

James

capri v8 driver · Post by **capri v8 driver** » Sat Apr 05, 2014 5:35 am

I use firmware version 1.2.4 at the moment.

Greets paul.

Post by **jsmcortina** » Sat Apr 05, 2014 6:12 am

PS. my mk1 Capri : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nql6iyS6TBc

James

capri v8 driver · Post by **capri v8 driver** » Sat Apr 05, 2014 1:00 pm

capri v8 driver wrote:To day and tomorrow I will tidy up the wiring first, box the ford connector and find a good spot for the ecu, swap and separate the cam wires for new shielded wires, replace the 20 + years old fan wiring and 40 years fuse box for a modern one.

Greets Paul.

Made good progress this afternoon, shielded wires are in place, fan wiring is done and working and started with making a box for the ford ecu connectors. with some luck tomorrow evening all is done.

jsmcortina wrote:PS. my mk1 Capri : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nql6iyS6TBc

James

I have seen those vids before. I guess there is some paint on the capri by now and you are driving it.

A very light capri with a 5.3 v8 turbo, I think there isn't very much competition in looks and speed department

Post by **jsmcortina** » Sat Apr 05, 2014 1:06 pm

capri v8 driver wrote:I have seen those vids before. I guess there is some paint on the capri by now and you are driving it.

I wish it was so. The car actually looks _less_ complete now than in those vids as I decided to change the rear axle and chassis somewhat.

James

capri v8 driver · Post by **capri v8 driver** » Wed Apr 09, 2014 10:00 am

jsmcortina wrote:
capri v8 driver wrote:I have seen those vids before. I guess there is some paint on the capri by now and you are driving it.
I wish it was so. The car actually looks _less_ complete now than in those vids as I decided to change the rear axle and chassis somewhat.

James

What axle are you gone use?

I finished everything on my to do list and a bid more as i discoverd that the 40+ year old wiring under the dash had some serious problems with the isolation and had to be replaced. It took longer than i tought but every thing is done now. When i started the engine for the first time it now fires up and idles on its own however it idles at 450 rpm for a minute and than increases to 850 rpm when the engine heats up. it looks like the IAC is not working. I can disconnect it and the idle stays the same.

Are my settings for the ford IAC right or did i missed something?

Just to be on the save side, according to the manual, i did add a 1n4001 diode parralel between 12volt and pin 30 of the main connector.

capri v8 driver · Post by **capri v8 driver** » Wed Apr 09, 2014 10:02 am

i forgot to add the current tune.

capri v8 driver · Post by **capri v8 driver** » Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:31 am

Played arround with the IACV settings and it now seems the IACV is working. It now starts without help with the throttle and than idles at 670 rmp, raising a little bid to 740 rmp.

I found out that the accel enrichment is not correct anymore as the engine dies when i open the throttle quik and the a/f is not correct when the engine warms up. Its a bit on the rich side. i lowered the start up VE with 1 point. It seemed to run beter.

i will include the log files and the current tune.

capri v8 driver · Post by **capri v8 driver** » Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:32 am

The modifyed tune.

capri v8 driver · Post by **capri v8 driver** » Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:39 am

And the screen shots of the changes i made for the idle settings.

feel free to comment.

capri v8 driver · Post by **capri v8 driver** » Sat Apr 26, 2014 1:49 am

jsmcortina wrote:There are false triggers on the cam input.

My suggestion - simplify things. Get the engine running with semi-sequential fuel and the cam sensor unplugged.

THEN... once you know that the engine can start and run, you can tackle stage two of adding the cam sensor and sequential fuel.

Note, that that VE table has no effect on the first stage of starting. That is controlled only by cranking timing and cranking pulsewidth. From the one startup datalog you posted it looks like the engine is bursting into life and then dying due to the sync-loss. My suggestion above ought to resolve that.

I _think_ the reason for the sync-loss is that the cam tooth/sensor is positioned at an unfortunate angle so the pulse aligns with the EDIS PIP signal and is sometimes before and sometimes after that edge.

James

My question, is it posible to delay the cam signal in tunerstudio or would it be possible to rotate the cam sensor slightly so that the signals of the crank and cam dont aligne to pervent a sync-loss?

As you said all to me, without a wideband controller and sensor it will be difficcult to do anything. So i bought a innovate lc2. i will include the logs from a cold engine and a hot engine. Half way the second log you can see that i turned on the self tuning function for idle and it seems to work as the idle gets more stable. 1 problem to solve is the accelleration. when the engine is cold or warming up and i open the throttle quik it back fires true the intake.

capri v8 driver · Post by **capri v8 driver** » Sat Apr 26, 2014 1:51 am

And the last log file where you can see where i turned the self tuning function on for the ilde and how the engine reacts to it.

Post by **jsmcortina** » Sat Apr 26, 2014 5:26 am

capri v8 driver wrote:My question, is it posible to delay the cam signal in tunerstudio or would it be possible to rotate the cam sensor slightly so that the signals of the crank and cam dont aligne to pervent a sync-loss?

Turn the cam sensor so it is ~20 degrees later or earlier.

James

capri v8 driver · Post by **capri v8 driver** » Mon Apr 28, 2014 3:57 am

i tryed your sugestion and turned the cam sensor 20 degrees both ways, but thats not doing the trick. The signal looks very wrong to me.

To make sure its not the wiring, i replace the cam sensor for a seperate shielded wire but that also did not work.

Could it be the cam sensor it self thats messing thing up or should i start playing with resistors in the signal line?

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