will Microsquirt do what I need???

[dontz125]

24c - ? Those numbers are at pull-start speeds, and 4v is plenty.

krom. - any chance of posting a wiring diagram?

[24c]

Yeah, I saw the pull start bit, dontz125, so that's what I thought, did I suggest otherwise.
from what I read of the Arctic 800 engine, it has 2 ignition sensors, so I assume it uses one for the pull start, and the other when the engine kicks in and starts idling.

and piledriver is quite right too, put the flywheel (I sometimes call it a stator :doh ) in a lathe turn the lumps off, and then transfer to a milling table and index & machine indented holes into the flywheel to create a tooth pattern.

This would work with a stock VR too, but might have to move it closer.
FWIW, some 1980-90's Yamaha's used this system, 8-1 unto 14000 rpm and some older car EFI conversions in Europe, machine circular indents on the outside of the flywheel, just inboard of the ring gear to create a trigger wheel too.

[krom]

AFIK The use of 2 pick up coils if to facilitate engine reverse (all engines prior to engine reverse used a single sensor, both efi, and carb). You hit the reverse button, and the ecu cuts spark until the rpm drops low enough, it then fires very advanced to kick the engine backwards, once the crank changes direction, the timing reverts back to normal, with the engine turning the other way.

I will attach a shot of the wire diagrams, the main harness diagram is pretty complex, as it includes ecu, stator, 2 timing pickups, exhaust temp sensor (pipe center section temp), tps, voltage regulator, injectors, actuator for exhaust valves, 4 coils, fuel pump, etc.

How deep do I need to machine for a hall effect sensor to accurately read?

I found this at digikey: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... &vendor=18

Can I use a patteren that is mostly metal? (IE machine the od smooth, then add 11 holes to make a 12-1 pattern?) depending on how deep I have to go, I'd rather not machine a lot of slots in the flywheel cup as I'm worried about creating a ticking bomb.

[piledriver]

Can I use a patteren that is mostly metal? (IE machine the od smooth, then add 11 holes to make a 12-1 pattern?) depending on how deep I have to go, I'd rather not machine a lot of slots in the flywheel cup as I'm worried about creating a ticking bomb.

That's really down to the sensor you use, 6-1 would probably work fine for you.
I used 6 existing holes on the back of my flywheel--- the open backside holes of the pressure plate hold down bolts on my first ms setup for 6/1 sequential on a 4 stroke. (there was a convienient hole in the case)

[24c]

That's interesting, never knew these things did reverse, so that explains why the second sensor is 90º apart.

Can I ask a daft question, have you tried reprogramming the original ECU? Do you know what make ECU is in the snowmobile?
Is it Denso, with their Suzuki tie up?
If reverse is a requirement, I don't know how the MicroSquirt would do this, unless you could reverse the starter rotation.

Yes, I would machine series of round holes, but indented just a couple of mm, the picture shows a GTS1000 crank, which has a sensor on the end, rather than the side like yours, theses are about 2.5mm deep.

GTS1000_crank_trigger.jpeg

and this is a 36-1 in a similar orientation to yours, but the "holes" are too deep, but you'll get the idea.

modded_flywheel_trigger.jpg

[krom]

That's interesting, never knew these things did reverse, so that explains why the second sensor is 90º apart.

Can I ask a daft question, have you tried reprogramming the original ECU? Do you know what make ECU is in the snowmobile?
Is it Denso, with their Suzuki tie up?

The ecu is Kokusan Denki, and I havent been able to find any one who has successfully pulled a map from one.

If reverse is a requirement, I don't know how the MicroSquirt would do this, unless you could reverse the starter rotation.

This engine is going into a pro stock drag sled, reverse isn't an issue.

Yes, I would machine series of round holes, but indented just a couple of mm, the picture shows a GTS1000 crank, which has a sensor on the end, rather than the side like yours, theses are about 2.5mm deep.

[24c]

The ecu is Kokusan Denki, and I havent been able to find any one who has successfully pulled a map from one.

Yes, I've seen you here asking the question.
Kokusan is what was used on the Husaberg and KTM SuperMotards, and you can use TuneECU to read the KTM stuff, using a modded VAG type K-Line connector, I wonder if this might allow you to hack into it.
I've seen reference to a PDF for Kokusandenki.co.jp, but I can't find the original, that deals with the K-Line interface, a Windows PC and how to interact with it.

Back on topic, so reverse is not required, than a MicroSquirt should do it then, once you successfully make a trigger wheel.
Good luck

Mike

[krom]

The ecu is Kokusan Denki, and I havent been able to find any one who has successfully pulled a map from one.

Yes, I've seen you here asking the question.
Kokusan is what was used on the Husaberg and KTM SuperMotards, and you can use TuneECU to read the KTM stuff, using a modded VAG type K-Line connector, I wonder if this might allow you to hack into it.
I've seen reference to a PDF for Kokusandenki.co.jp, but I can't find the original, that deals with the K-Line interface, a Windows PC and how to interact with it.

Back on topic, so reverse is not required, than a MicroSquirt should do it then, once you successfully make a trigger wheel.
Good luck

Mike

Any suggestions on which sensor would work best, or will just about any hall effect sensor do?


Thanks to all you guys for helping, I've got a lot of work to do, since this engine has an appointment at the dyno in 2 weeks .

[24c]

Any suggestions on which sensor would work best, or will just about any hall effect sensor do?

Given the dyno deadline in two weeks! and you'll be using the MicroSquirt v3, plus you get enough voltage from the pull start, why not keep the VR.
You know it fits in the case, and if you are machining the flywheel with indents or adding teeth to the edge, you can easily move it.
Just 'scope the output or log the trigger using TunerStudio, and check you're getting sync/RPMs showing on the pull start, before moving on to the ignition stuff.

Any coils with logic level triggering will do, otherwise you have to use an ignition module with a normal coil. Just go for the one that gives the best packaging.

Do you have a plan B if you can't get to the dyno in 2 weeks?

Mike

[krom]

Plan B is carbs, and msd. as we will need the dyno time to work on pipe design/fitting/testing (expansion chambers).

I was going to use 4 gm ls1 style truck coils, (even if one coil per cylinder dies we can still finish the pass)

Will stick with the stock pickup and mod the flywheel to work.

[24c]

I was going to use 4 gm ls1 style truck coils, (even if one coil per cylinder dies we can still finish the pass)

Why is it twin plugged?

[krom]

I was going to use 4 gm ls1 style truck coils, (even if one coil per cylinder dies we can still finish the pass)

Why is it twin plugged?

twin plugs are good for lower emissions, and a few hp

[krom]

well the uS should be here any day now, once I get into the wiring and install where is the best place to post questions? Here or the microsquirt section?

[jsmcortina]

well the uS should be here any day now, once I get into the wiring and install where is the best place to post questions? Here or the microsquirt section?

In the Megasquirt-2 support sub-section of this MSEXTRA forum.

James