Toyota Land Cruiser 1FZ-FE Cam/Crank input? Distributorless?

[user name:]

From digging around and google-fu I think ive discovered that my truck (1997 Land Cruiser) with 1FZ-FE has a "36-2 +1 Home" cam/crank sensors? does this sound right? I imagine these sensors are picked up in the distributor right? Will the megasquirt MS3-Pro work with this engine? I will be running it in parallel to maintain the stock TCU control. What would be involved in removing the distributor and running direct or coil on plug ignition? If I were to remove the distributor how would the MS3 then get crank/cam sensor input?

For anyone searching for 1FZFE info this is what finally worked for us. I still have a lot of artifact movement in the tach not sure how to fix that, but the engine control is solid. Using the stock idle control and it is a little rough still need to figure that out as well.

this is a picture of the same truck with the haltech settings:

[user name:]

the crank and cam sensors are magnetic and I believe they are inside the distributor. I am not sure but think I have been told there are 3 magnets? could I still remove the distributor and retrofit a cam & crank sensor to go COP coil pack ignition?

[Matt Cramer]

"36-2 +1 Home" sounds like what MS3-Pro would use in dual wheel with missing teeth mode and is pretty straightforward to run. The 36-2 sensor is usually on the crank.

Most "all distributor" Toyota trigger arrangements from that era would be a 24 tooth and a 1 tooth wheel, which is also supported. I'd recommend opening up the distributor and having a look to know for sure.

Either pattern can be used to trigger a coil per plug or wasted spark ignition.

[user name:]

yup it looks like I have a 36-2 on the crank but my camshaft position is picked up in the distributor. how would I go about eliminating the distributor while still being able to collect the camshaft position signal from the distributor? I guess I could hack up the original distributor where I only leave the gears and hex shaft that drives the cps and remove everything else from the distributor? Im trying to make a far more waterproof and less mechanically complex ignition system. Lets say I hack up the stock distributor, seal up all up, remove the ignition windings and components leaving only the cam position sensor. I could then use this as the cam pos. sensor input for the MS3-pro? Is the crank sensor and the cam sensor both required to run sequential fuel and ignition? At this point I could use the MS3 Pro to fire single cop's like the stock tundra coils or something?

[Matt Cramer]

I'd just remove the rotor and make a cap with no contacts on it.

You'll need both a crank and a cam sensor in this case.

[user name:]

Awesome man, i can probably CAD up a fully enclosed cap and have it machined out of aluminum locally.