just testing to see if I understand how to post a copy of my tune. If it works, then I can go about asking for help.
Briefly I have a1961 VW Beetle, have built a stroker motor and obviously fitted EFI and a turbo. Just now loading the ECU with data to try and get the thing running
Kevs VW.msq
2014-12-08_14.22.59.csv
Hope it works, Kev
EDIT: Also having issues as no rpm signal.
Last edited by Camo on Sun Dec 14, 2014 1:52 am, edited 4 times in total.
Have been reading the forums re no RPM signal for hours now and am none the wiser for it.
About to hit the sack, but thought I would post a couple of quick photos of my car. Was stock when I bought her about 7 years ago and am finally near my original goal of having it EFI & Turbo powered.
The tune file is set up for a 36-1 crank wheel and a 1 tooth cam wheel, but I'm only seeing two crank pulses for every cam pulse. I would first check the sensor gap on the crankshaft position sensor.
Matt Cramer -1966 Dodge Dart slant six running on MS3X
I couldn't work out how to do this via TS but here is a photo I took of the Cam and Crank signals. Does this tell you anything more. It looks to me that every two cycles of crank there is 1 cycle of cam, but I still have no rpm signal.
I see an obvious problem with that wheel and sensor arrangement, it's good that you posted the pix. The sensor is at an angle, kind of pointing towards one edge of the wheel! Even if the air-gap is reduced to near-zero. the bulk of the wheel is some distance from the sensor and presents a much-reduced "target". If the edge of the wheel that is closest to the sensor was machined with and angle or "chamfer" that matched the angle of the sensor, it would probably be fine. You asked before - a "too small" air-gap will not cause a problem, usually want the smallest gap possible without any fear of the sensor and wheel hitting. Run-out of the wheel is usually the limiting factor, as engine main-bearings have to have clearances of just a couple thousands of an inch.
This photo may answer your queries re the VR sensor and mating surface.
Also, if I am getting crank and cam signal, why no rpm. I've been reading the forums etc and cant work it out.
Last night I took the top cover off ECU and played with R11 & R32. R11 C/C/W and the then 3 C/W turns gives about 2.5v, I read here http://m54megasquirt3.blogspot.com.au/2 ... tment.html that it should be adjust so its putting out 2v but didn't make any difference (I don't think).
Does the tacho on TS gauge display have anything to with your tacho output from the MS.
Currently you can see that you get a cam every 2ish crank triggers on the log. You are only meant to get one cam per 720 degrees crank so the Cam trace is actually indicating a cranking rpm of 176 but if you look at the crank trace it is indicating (given it's expecting 36-1 triggers per revolution) it's cranking at 5 rpm. I would suspect if Cam is correct you should be seeing about 9.5mS between crank triggers not 335mS.
Find the Manuals up top under Quick links: Manuals.
Cheers Luke
Okay, that last picture shows the sensor and wheel angle should be fine. Try reducing the air gap down to .010" or a bit less. If you put an AC voltmeter across the CKP sensor leads, with them disconnected from all else, what kind of (AC) voltage do you get while cranking? Reconnect the sensor and repeat that test at the MS DB37 pins... post results.
I could be wrong , but it looks like the only time it is getting a pulse is when the missing tooth area is passing the sensor.Almost like the gaps in the wheel aren't wide enough or the sensor face is too wide.
How wide is the pole piece on the sensor compared to the gaps in the trigger wheel. Maybe try increasing the gap instead of narrowing it.
The reason you are seeing no rpm is because the the ecu is expecting to see 1 cam pulse for every two crank revolutions and 35 pulses then a 1 tooth gap for every 1 crank revolution and you are only sending one.
When you hook an ac voltmeter on a low scale to the vr sensor and turn the engine over by hand you should see a voltage swing each time a tooth passes the sensor. If you only see a swing when it passes the missing tooth gap there is something wrong in your trigger wheel setup.
The only thing that is puzzling, is that this setup comes as a matched kit so it should work.
As I said before could be wrong, but something to investigate.
It's Friday night here and I will have a go at all your suggestions on the weekend and get back to you.
slow_hemi6 & Matt Cramer you both said something about my crank only getting two crank triggers and I was taking this is correct for 2 revolutions, but now after also reading 'old guy' comments I think you mean that I should be getting 35 triggers every revolution of crank. If this is the case I fully understand why my engine is confused So I should be getting 70 crank triggers to every 1 cam trigger.
thanks to the input of you all, I have managed to get the engine running. Was still having issues with crank trigger, with only about 60 or so crank trigger to one cam trigger. I ended up reducing the gap down to 0.010" unlike the 0.025' that the supplier suggested. Played around with the VR pots and she fired up.
Here is a quick video, although it is running very rich.
So I should be getting 70 crank triggers to every 1 cam trigger.