Noob with a few Questions

[Gs1327]

I've been lurking here for weeks, trying to get a clue...
If any one can help me here I would really appreciate it. I'm about to embark on 2 projects
One will be a 360 degree twin(BMW bike), and I believe the microsquirt will be the best bet with 1 missing tooth wheel on the cam. Or am I in left field? I have no place to put a wheel on the crank and only enough room for a 2-1/2" diameter wheel on the cam. I would like to do this sequential injection. This project is going to happen, I am presently trying to get a shopping list/Bill of materials together.

The second is for a friend who wants to convert an OLD(WWII vintage) 60 degree V-8(odd fire). Anyway to make this happen with sequential injection and COP and if so which ECU would be the best choice? I'm having a little trouble seeing how to make this happen. This is a very low RPM engine and he really wants it to be sequential.
Thanks!

[Matt Cramer]

Yes, the code supports missing tooth cam wheels no problem.

Sequential injection and COP on a V8 will require MS3.

[Gs1327]

Thank you Matt. On the V-8 odd-fire engine are the crank degrees between fire events determined in the configuration(through tuner studio) or are multiple crank triggers needed?

[Matt Cramer]

It's set in TunerStudio.

[R100RT]

I've been lurking here for weeks, trying to get a clue...
If any one can help me here I would really appreciate it. I'm about to embark on 2 projects
One will be a 360 degree twin(BMW bike), and I believe the microsquirt will be the best bet with 1 missing tooth wheel on the cam. Or am I in left field? I have no place to put a wheel on the crank and only enough room for a 2-1/2" diameter wheel on the cam. I would like to do this sequential injection. This project is going to happen, I am presently trying to get a shopping list/Bill of materials together.

The second is for a friend who wants to convert an OLD(WWII vintage) 60 degree V-8(odd fire). Anyway to make this happen with sequential injection and COP and if so which ECU would be the best choice? I'm having a little trouble seeing how to make this happen. This is a very low RPM engine and he really wants it to be sequential.
Thanks!

Are you working with a BMW twin boxer? If so, then there are ways to get a tone wheel onto the end of the crank. You could have a smaller toothed wheel machined to bolt up against the end of the alternator shaft. There are also suppliers for these (Silent Hektik, etc.) but not sure if those tooth combinations work with MS. If you remove the bean can off cam drive (again assuming you're referring to a boxer motorbike config) you could fab something together but wisdom suggests the accuracy off the cam isn't as clean (due to chain slop etc.). One thing to come to grips with first however is the stock alternator output - not adequate for all the extra draws you'll encounter via ignition and injection components.
If its not a boxer, then ignore all of the above. If it is then I have lots of data I can share.

[Gs1327]

Thank you Matt- I'll putter around w/TS for a while and try to find my way. It's all a bit overwhelming to me, starting from zero.

R100RT-
Yes, it's a 77 R100/7(Breaker Pts)
I Plan to upgrade the alternator as a first step, I wasn't sure if the alternator was a safe place to have an ignition pickup with all the magnetic madness going on.
I could put another sensor on a single tooth cam driven gear for the sync.
Any info you can share would be helpful. Thanks so much.
Tom

[R100RT]

Thank you Matt- I'll putter around w/TS for a while and try to find my way. It's all a bit overwhelming to me, starting from zero.

R100RT-
Yes, it's a 77 R100/7(Breaker Pts)
I Plan to upgrade the alternator as a first step, I wasn't sure if the alternator was a safe place to have an ignition pickup with all the magnetic madness going on.
I could put another sensor on a single tooth cam driven gear for the sync.
Any info you can share would be helpful. Thanks so much.
Tom

Glad to hear of another airhead project. I have all (many) of the agonizing details of my project over at the MS Success Stories under Motorbikes - Kompressor, or this link.
http://www.msruns.com/viewtopic.php?f=93&t=22855
If you like you can view how I dealt with many/ most of the challenges (and it is a rather extreme rebirth due to the bikes full on and space restrictive faring, the "one of upfit" for a 900 w alternator, and addition of turbocharging (plus after cooling, water injection, dual injector location testing, etc. etc.) I believe you are taking a wise approach to utilize sequential, and a single tooth VR cam arrangement worked for me. There are people running a trigger off the end of the alternator without seeming interference but you could test it first using Tuner Studio and the excellent data and composite logging features. Merely connect the chopper and sensor up front with cover removed, with other wiring either connected or not, and run bike on carbs and with points intact to witness how the signal is interpreted by MS. Better, would be a full on study starting with plugs out (ground coil leads to ground) and cranking engine, then operate right up to higher rpms and with battery low enough that charging is taking place. You will be able to see the trigger form and know in advance of trying to run engine if the signals are clean and true. You may be better off with a hall sensor on the crank for the alternator plate but a VR might work just fine (I ended up with a collection of mostly free sensors and tested lots). I added Jean Bellinger's remarkable little "VR Conditioner" to enhance my VR signals, but depending on what MS you purchase I believe that technology is now included as standard kit (mine was V2 MicroSquirt so rather earlier version)
Good luck and hoping to see photos and updates. Let me know if you have any questions.
Lorne.

[Gs1327]

Thanks Lorne, I'll check it. I am really having a hard time understanding how these forums work, there seems to be multiple places with the same sub forums? Legacy forums?
I'll register there and check it.
Tom