Kawasaki v twin install help.

Mastechtim · Post by **Mastechtim** » Fri Feb 24, 2017 7:26 pm

I'm looking for some start up advise. I'm building a Kawasaki v-twin turbo engine. It's carbed and I'm going to us microsquirt for ignition system for now. Later I'll inject it. My first question of many I'm sure. Is this engine is available with F.I. from the factory. So there is a I believe 22/2 missing tooth flywheel that I can buy cheap and the sensor for this flywheel. Is it something I can use with microsquirt. If so it'll get me started. Also I have some LS/2 MSD coils pn# 8287. Can I used these coils. If so it'll save me some money. Next, what sensor should I buy for now that I'll need to run this system for ignition only. I'd like to use boost retard and rev limiter. What do recommend for a wideband. Thanks Tim

dontz125 · Post by **dontz125** » Sun Feb 26, 2017 6:06 am

You didn't specify WHICH Kawi twin. If this is an EX250, then yes - the EX300 rotor has a 24-2 pattern that the uS will read with no problems. The OEM VR sensor will work fine. The standard EX250 rotor pattern is 1 Long + 3 Short, which really isn't readable without additional circuitry and a mod to the code.

I don't know anything about those coils, so I can't comment intelligently.

Since the bike doesn't come with a TPS, a MAP sensor can indicate engine load for additional ignition advance at part throttle, but isn't strictly necessary. Boost retard and rev limiter are part of the basic code; obviously for boost retard you'll need a MAP sensor.

Mastechtim · Post by **Mastechtim** » Sun Feb 26, 2017 2:13 pm

Thanks for the help. It's a FD851D basically a lawnmower engine. It's the only engine that I could find that would fit in the side by side with a little machine work. At first I was just going to cam it and wing it. After a while I decided to put a small garrett on it. Engine it built with all custom pieces and built right. Not something I just bolted together. They do a model of this engine that's injected. The flywheel is a 24 tooth with 2 missing and I'm sure it's a VR sensor. Coils that I have say they are LS 2's not the truck coils tho. With 4 pin connector. It'll be running on E85 so I need good spark and ignition system. I'd like to get it running first and see how it does, after inject it. Sounds like the flywheel will work. I'll get it and a map. My son does some turning so I hope I can get him to help once ready to fire. Again Thanks for the fast response it's appreciated.

Mastechtim · Post by **Mastechtim** » Sun Feb 26, 2017 5:25 pm

How do you mount a 3 bar map. Is there a bracket you can buy or do you just make your own. Also is there a way to use AN line on a map. This is a off road bike and all the lines are AN. So I'd like for the map be AN if possible. I'll need a coolant switch to turn a fan on, it is water cooled. what one do you recommend. I'd prefer to buy it from diy. Thanks

Mastechtim · Post by **Mastechtim** » Sat Mar 04, 2017 8:54 am

Can anyone help me with MSD flying magnets install. They say to used rivets. Can I just drill the flywheel and use epoxy to install the magnets ? I'm sure I can I'd just like to make sure. I can't use a stock flywheel like I was going to use. I'm having a aluminum flywheel made and I'd like to use msd crank trigger system if possible. Thanks for your time.

LAV1000 · Post by **LAV1000** » Sat Mar 04, 2017 10:25 am

You already have a 24-2 wheel and a VR sensor, whats the plan with the MSD magnets ?

Mastechtim · Post by **Mastechtim** » Sat Mar 04, 2017 12:22 pm

Thanks for the response. I can't use it for safety reasons. Cast wheel and it might explode. So I'm having a billet aluminum flywheel machined. So now I'm wanting to install MSD flying crank trigger. No one makes anything that's a bolt on. I figure I'll use msd magnets and crank trigger pick up. I have a bracket for the crank trigger. Just need to install the magnets in the flywheel. Im thinking I can drill and epoxy the magnets. MSD tells you to use rivets. I'm thinking I probably dont need them to install the magnets, but just wanted to make sure. I believe the setup would be same as a msd distributor. From what I've read. Is this true ?

LAV1000 · Post by **LAV1000** » Sun Mar 05, 2017 1:40 am

Keep in mind that a distrubutor runs halfe the speed of a crank.
Another thing that MSD sensor only gives a few pulses per rev.
If you like a more pricise ignition (no brainer on turbo) you need a better resolution, more teeth per rpm.
Some people use a motorbike sprocket as a toothed wheel.
Cut off the sharpest part of the teeth (lathe).
Find a way to bold this to your billed flywheel.
Make, yes make a bracket for your VR sensor.
Check manual on max teeth.
Since you got a rare setup (engine) post some pic's overhere you might get more reactions.

old guy · Post by **old guy** » Sun Mar 05, 2017 2:21 pm

I agree on trying to try and fit a tooted wheel if it is any way possible. You will get a lot more timing resolution which you need on a performance engine build.
If you are getting a custom flywheel machined it shouldn't be that difficult to fit a toothed wheel.
About epoxying the magnets to the flywheel, not a good idea. They will come out. Ask me how I know.
Just a word of caution. This motor looks similar to the engine they use in Kawasaki Mules. If you raise the governor on a Mule they will kick the rods out.
If you are using custom rods you might get away with it, but the stock rods don't run inserts, just run right on the aluminium rods.
As Lav1000 said, show some pictures and some more info. There are quite a few experienced engine builder that frequent this forum that could give you some advice.
As for the map line, just use regular vacuum hose. No need for an AN hose unless you are just going for looks.
For the wideband, just read the what wideband is best thread on the forum and make your selection based on this.

Mastechtim · Post by **Mastechtim** » Mon Mar 06, 2017 8:49 am

https://imageshack.us/i/pmLrIcNLj. https://imageshack.us/i/poGtB97Cj

Mastechtim · Post by **Mastechtim** » Mon Mar 06, 2017 8:55 am

Block has been sleeved, it's been balanced, billet rods, wisco pistons, head ported, springs. Retainers, keepers, bronze guides. I made a windage tray, garrett turbo, I made stainless exhaust and aluminum intake. Draw through system with 45 mm mikuni. It's going to run on e85 for a intercooler.

Mastechtim · Post by **Mastechtim** » Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:00 am

Also as you can see. Block has been o-ringed and Comedic made me .040 copper gaskets. Plus I installed timeserts through out the block. Every bolt is ARP. I increase head bolts to 10mm from 8mm.

Mastechtim · Post by **Mastechtim** » Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:09 am

I still need to make a bracket for the external mini alternator. It's a 35 amp unit. Crank is forged steel from the factory. I was surprised. I also made a baffle around the oil pump pick up. For better oil control. It'll have a external oil cooler and remote filter. Ron Davis is making me a radiator with spal fan and relay.

Mastechtim · Post by **Mastechtim** » Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:20 am

https://imageshack.us/i/pn0GRrv3j. https://imageshack.us/i/po1rOm8lj

LAV1000 · Post by **LAV1000** » Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:34 am

When using a V- belt to drive the alternator you can also use the crankshaft pulley to mount a toothed wheel on.
Engine looks nice, kawa green like it should !!

Mastechtim · Post by **Mastechtim** » Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:52 am

Anyone want to buy a msd crank trigger pick up with 32 inch lead with a few magnets. Hahaha. I'll get a toothed wheel. Thanks for your help. I'm not any good with late electronics. This is why it's carbed. I figured I'd start slow with ignition only and after I work with it for a while I'll go to F.I. and get rid of the draw through. I'm learning.

LAV1000 · Post by **LAV1000** » Mon Mar 06, 2017 11:36 am

Mastechtim wrote: This is why it's carbed. I figured I'd start slow with ignition only and after I work with it for a while I'll go to F.I. and get rid of the draw through. I'm learning.

Thats a good way to get going, I did it the same way.

There's a lot of gain in ignition timing !
Start reading the manual on how to wire those LS2 coils

Mastechtim · Post by **Mastechtim** » Sun Mar 12, 2017 7:46 pm

Do I need to solder in the 2 caps they show in the harness for LS2 coils. They show a 0.001 uf on ground wire and a 1.0 uf on switched 12v wire. If so can I use like stereo caps. Like what you used in crossovers. Thanks

LAV1000 · Post by **LAV1000** » Sun Mar 12, 2017 10:59 pm

Mastechtim wrote:Do I need to solder in the 2 caps they show in the harness for LS2 coils. They show a 0.001 uf on ground wire and a 1.0 uf on switched 12v wire. If so can I use like stereo caps. Like what you used in crossovers. Thanks

Start whitout those caps, but certainly use resistor type spark plugs (5kOhm).

Mastechtim · Post by **Mastechtim** » Thu Mar 30, 2017 9:03 am

I wasn't able to use missing tooth ring. So I'm back to flying magnet pickup. When installing magnets in the flywheel if I'm reading it correctly. They want the magnets installed at 60 degrees btdc. Correct ? So base idle timing and advance would be set with microsquirt right. I just want to make sure the magnets are installed correctly because I have to have the flywheel balanced after the magnets are installed. Thanks

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