Here's the setup guide https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tec ... 27b10a.jpg[/img]
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Using a SR20 CAS on a non SR engine, tooth angle?
Moderators: jsmcortina, muythaibxr
Using a SR20 CAS on a non SR engine, tooth angle?
I have a Datsun with a Z20E engine (similar to the L series) and I have a SR20 cas and I've made an adapter for it to fit where the distributor used to be and I'm waiting on the diyautotune triggerwheel to arrive. But how do I best go about setting this up? I've read the description of diyautotunes website but those are for the SR, ka and l28et engines. I have no idea what angle this cas needs to be at so should I just set the tooth #1 angle at 345 degrees like the website says and then just turn the cas until timing in TS matches the ignition mark on my crank pulley or how would you go about doing this?
Here's the setup guide https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tec ... 27b10a.jpg[/img]
Sent fra min HUAWEI VNS-L31 via Tapatalk
Here's the setup guide https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tec ... 27b10a.jpg[/img]
Sent fra min HUAWEI VNS-L31 via Tapatalk
-
whittlebeast
- Super MS/Extra'er
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Re: Using a SR20 CAS on a non SR engine, tooth angle?
I posted this on a different thread and this my help you think thru the process.
Hope this helps
<<<<<< snip >>>>>>>
This is how I do that trigger angle stuff on a full sequential install. Lets assume you have either a missing tooth wheel or a even toothed wheel on the crank or cam. Lets also assume you have a cam trigger wheel with one tooth. Let's assume you have no clue where any of the teeth are located in the 720 degrees of crank rotation.
1) Remove the fuse from the injectors. The last thing you want at this point is the motor trying to fire and mess up the flywheel ring gear.
2) Connect a cheep timing light with no timing offset knob.
3) Set the code to fixed timing at 0 degrees.
4) Locate and verify the 0 degrees timing mark on the harmonic balancer.
5) Set the tooth one timing offset to zero degrees.
6) I like to paint a really clear zero timing mark with black permanent marker on a white paint background on the front of the harmonic balancer that is really easy to see and a pointer
7) Have a friend crank the motor and look where the mark is compared to your pointer. Change the tooth one offset by adding say 45 degrees and retest. Within about 6 tries, you will find that the spark is real close to your 0 timing mark. The only catch is you will have no clue if you are off by 360 degrees of crank rotation. Never go over 360 degrees on this setting at this point in the process.
8 ) Now set the timing to 15 degrees, power up the coils and try starting the motor. If it fires you won the 50 - 50 chance and you got lucky.
8a) If it does not start, add 360 degrees to the timing offset and the motor will normally fire right up.
9) Assuming you have a 15 degrees timing mark on the harmonic ballancer, dial in the timing offset the last few degrees to dial it dead on with the motor running.
10) Rev the motor a few times and make sure the timing is not moving from 15 degrees. If it does, you will need to mess with the timing hysteresis to get things stable as rpm changes.
11) Turn the normal timing back on and move on to fueling.
Pay close attention to the logs looking for Lost Sync Errors. Any errors wile the motor is running are a big problem. This is when you need to get into taking composite trigger logs. Matt at DIY is really good at looking at those and helping out.
It takes about 10 min and math is not involved. That's how I do it...
Hope this helps
<<<<<< snip >>>>>>>
This is how I do that trigger angle stuff on a full sequential install. Lets assume you have either a missing tooth wheel or a even toothed wheel on the crank or cam. Lets also assume you have a cam trigger wheel with one tooth. Let's assume you have no clue where any of the teeth are located in the 720 degrees of crank rotation.
1) Remove the fuse from the injectors. The last thing you want at this point is the motor trying to fire and mess up the flywheel ring gear.
2) Connect a cheep timing light with no timing offset knob.
3) Set the code to fixed timing at 0 degrees.
4) Locate and verify the 0 degrees timing mark on the harmonic balancer.
5) Set the tooth one timing offset to zero degrees.
6) I like to paint a really clear zero timing mark with black permanent marker on a white paint background on the front of the harmonic balancer that is really easy to see and a pointer
7) Have a friend crank the motor and look where the mark is compared to your pointer. Change the tooth one offset by adding say 45 degrees and retest. Within about 6 tries, you will find that the spark is real close to your 0 timing mark. The only catch is you will have no clue if you are off by 360 degrees of crank rotation. Never go over 360 degrees on this setting at this point in the process.
8 ) Now set the timing to 15 degrees, power up the coils and try starting the motor. If it fires you won the 50 - 50 chance and you got lucky.
8a) If it does not start, add 360 degrees to the timing offset and the motor will normally fire right up.
9) Assuming you have a 15 degrees timing mark on the harmonic ballancer, dial in the timing offset the last few degrees to dial it dead on with the motor running.
10) Rev the motor a few times and make sure the timing is not moving from 15 degrees. If it does, you will need to mess with the timing hysteresis to get things stable as rpm changes.
11) Turn the normal timing back on and move on to fueling.
Pay close attention to the logs looking for Lost Sync Errors. Any errors wile the motor is running are a big problem. This is when you need to get into taking composite trigger logs. Matt at DIY is really good at looking at those and helping out.
It takes about 10 min and math is not involved. That's how I do it...
Re: Using a SR20 CAS on a non SR engine, tooth angle?
Good bit of advice there
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Re: Using a SR20 CAS on a non SR engine, tooth angle?
So with this method I can basically just bolt on the cas in whatever orientation and just use the software to get the timing right?
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whittlebeast
- Super MS/Extra'er
- Posts: 2221
- Joined: Tue May 04, 2004 8:20 pm
- Location: St Louis
- Contact:
Re: Using a SR20 CAS on a non SR engine, tooth angle?
Spiffy wrote:So with this method I can basically just bolt on the cas in whatever orientation and just use the software to get the timing right?
Yes. This process assumes you have even spacing on your crank sensor, not counting the spacing at the missing tooth.
Andy
Re: Using a SR20 CAS on a non SR engine, tooth angle?
Yes. But on the other side, just thinking out loud here, can't I also set fixed timing to 0, tooth 1 angle to zero and then turn the cas until the timing mark on my pulley shows 0? Wouldn't that be doing the same thing? But having tooth angle at 0 might not work? It needs some time before TDC right?
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