Can't get my EBC to work.

[M30guy]

Hi.
I THINK I wired it right.

Problem is when I power the car it'll slam shut.
Car off, it'll stay open, unpowered.
But when I choose inverted in the settings it'll stay open, instead of going closed.
and I'm using the DIYautotune solenoid.Thanks. Also, enable/disable doesn't do anything it'll keep it on.









This is how I wired it so, if anyone could offer any advice that would be awesome!


Wire from "in" going through proto area going to js11.


How I have it coming out of the box.

[SymTech Laboratories]

Wire from "in" going through proto area going to js11.

It's hard to tell from the angle the picture was taken, but this wire isn't also connected to the top of R26, is it?

[M30guy]

It's not, but I'll open it up and double check.
Checked it. Nothing is touching.

[SymTech Laboratories]

Could you either post your MSQ file or a screenshot of the boost control duty table? Since you entered 100% and 0% as the open and closed duty cycles, the valve could simply be fully open or closed depending on how your boost control duty table is setup.

[M30guy]

No problem.


Was moving the throttle with my hand and was watching if it was clicking and blowing through it but there was no change
going from 100 to 0.
tried it in reverse too and same thing.







MSQ

[SymTech Laboratories]

To begin, you should definitely set up the table correctly, with each RPM bin having a higher value than the last. Also, you will need to use different values than 100 and 0 if you're just testing the valve and expecting to see it react. The valve is either fully open or fully closed at 100% and 0% duty cycle.

[M30guy]

I'll set it up and post back.

[M30guy]

Ok, I just copyed this table from the MS docs.
I'm going to play with the throttle and see if it clicks open/closed.

[M30guy]

No Change

What could cause this?
Only thing that seems to work in Invert/normal.

[techsalvager]

if the valve is clicking its probably working, are you sure the install of the valve is in the correct way.
I had issues trying to figure out mine, finally I figured out that I had the solenoid connected to the lines wrong.

for testing I would put all cells at 0, if you get only wastegate pressure, then try 100 in all cells
Becareful, if it works you will ramp into boost quickly, make sure you have a good set overboost protection.

[M30guy]

How did you have it wired wrong?

I wired it according to the diagram.
The valve definitely works, but doesn't want to fallow instructions except for invert/normal.
I set it to 0 and 100 with no change.

I'm about to shoot myself in the head.

[techsalvager]

How did you have it wired wrong?

I wired it according to the diagram.
The valve definitely works, but doesn't want to fallow instructions except for invert/normal.
I set it to 0 and 100 with no change.

I'm about to shoot myself in the head.

all 0s in the target table rpm vs tps table?
all 100s?

[M30guy]

I don't understand.

Yeah the first screenshot you can see where it's 0 and 100.

Then I played with the throttle it would jump from 100 to 0 and back down with no change
I switched the 100 and 0 with the same results.

The valve is always open/closed with the car powered depending if it's inverted(open)/normal(closed).

Any more advise is appreciated. I just don't know what to do now.

[techsalvager]

Like shown in this picture

Do this in the open loop target table
Put all 0's in the table and check if it still at wastegate or past wastegate, if wastegate, then put 100 and retry. If you get still wastegate, probably time to look at your hose routing.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[M30guy]

I checked resistance on my circuit and the 10k resister is grounding out the signal.
Is that normal? Don't see any other way it could not ground it. But everything is not shorting
to anything else. What else to check?

Out: to solenoid is connecting.
ground: to js11 is getting 10k because of the resister so everything is flowing good, no breaks.
The transistor isn't grounded out to anything either.
Nothing is touching anything else. Very frustrating.

I fallowed these directions.


Js11 is for boost control in 3.2.1 and the diy kit didn't include the diode that goes between solenoid.
that's it.

[techsalvager]

why do you have two wires going from out?

[M30guy]

I didn't have the size I wanted to use.
I'll paypal anyone 10$ who figures out this problem.

[SymTech Laboratories]

When you set the table cells to 100% and the output polarity to "normal", can you measure 5V at JS11? The 10k resistor won't attenuate the signal from the CPU much, but it will pull the gate of the MOSFET to ground when the CPU is off (which is good); you should still measure close to 5V.

[HidRo]

Have your tests been performed with the car running?
Because I tested back in the day, to see how it was working and it will only work if the car is in fact running.
Another thing. You have 2 wires going out, but one will stay inside the case, correct? Why are you doing this?
You can test with the car running (idle) set the table to 0, and blow on the solenoid. Then set it to 50, and try to hear the solenoid click and blow through it again to see if there is any difference.
I had a solenoid that was FUBAR, that after 60 duty cycle, it would click and closed shut.

[M30guy]

I freaking love you man.

Started the car.
Then just reved it which hit all the 0 - 100 cells and the
valve started to ground out!

Just needed to start the car.

Pm. Me your paypal for $10